Ozymandias'
Sabotage Skills
Handbook
Volume II - Technical sabotage

1st Edition, 1996

Contents

1.   INTRODUCTION                                           5

2.   BASIC MECHANICAL SYSTEMS                               6
   2.1   The basic elements of mechanical systems           6
   2.2   Power sources                                      8
   2.3   Power conduits                                     10
   2.4   Power sinks                                        11
   2.5   Regulation                                         12
   2.6   Lubrication                                        12

3.   ENGINE BASED SYSTEMS                                   12
   3.1   The internal combustion engine                     12
   3.2   Petrol engines                                     13
   3.3   Diesel engines                                     14
   3.4   Gas engines                                        15
   3.5   Basic sabotage of engine systems                   15

4.   MOTOR BASED SYSTEMS                                    17
   4.1   Types of electric motor                            17
   4.2   DC, AC and 3-phase motors                          17
   4.3   Generators                                         18
   4.4   Basic sabotage of electric motors                  19

5.   PNEUMATICS                                             21
   5.1   Pneumatic systems                                  21
   5.2   Compressors                                        21
   5.3   Air lines                                          22
   5.4   Cylinders and motors                               22
   5.5   Tyres and balloons                                 23
   5.6   Basic sabotage of pneumatic systems                23

6.   HYDRAULICS                                             24
   6.1   Hydraulic systems                                  24
   6.2   Hydraulic pumps                                    24
   6.3   Valves and switches                                25
   6.4   Pipes                                              27
   6.5   Rams                                               27
   6.6   Sump and fluid                                     28
   6.7   Basic sabotage of hydraulic systems                28

7.   SWITCHGEAR AND INSTRUMENTATION                         29
   7.1   Controls/switchgear                                29
   7.2   Mechanical controls                                29
   7.3   Electronic controls/instrumentation                31
   7.4   Computer systems                                   33
   7.5   Basic sabotage of instrumentation and switchgear   33

8.   VEHICLES                                               34
   8.1   Cars, lorries and construction plant               34
   8.2   General sabotage options                           35
   8.3   Engine and fuel systems                            37
   8.4   Brakes and hydraulic systems                       37
   8.5   Electrical systems                                 38

9.   SPECIALIST HITS                                        38
   9.1   Construction equipment                             39
   9.2   Quarry equipment                                   40
   9.3   Farm machinery                                     40
   9.4   Pipelines and transmission lines                   42
   9.5   Commercial premises                                44
   9.6   High security compounds                            47
   9.7   Marine targets                                     47

10.   ADVANCED TECHNIQUES                                   49
   10.1   Introduction                                      49
   10.2   Concrete                                          49
   10.3   Soldering/braising and welding                    50
   10.4   Combustion                                        53
   10.5   Delayed sabotage                                  57

11. HEALTH AND SAFETY                                       58

12.   CONCLUSION                                            59

List of figures and tables:

Figure-00:      Cover illustration (Bedford van cut away)       1 & 34
Figure-01:      Osimanidias illustration                             6
Figure-02:      Cutting mains cables illustration                    8
Figure-03:      Typical engine system                               14
Figure-04:      Internal view of engine                             14
Figure-05:      External view of engine                             14
Figure-06:      AC/DC electric motors                               18
Figure-07:      Electric motor mounting configuration               18
Figure-08:      Internal diagram of electric motors                 18
Figure-09:      Motor power control                                 19
Figure-10:      Pneumatic systems                                   21
Figure-11:      Typical pneumatic cylinder                          23
Figure-12:      Illustration of hydraulic system                    24
Figure-13:      Hydraulic pump (small type)                         25
Figure-14:      Hydraulic pump (larger type)                        25
Figure-15:      Manual hydraulic valve and manifold                 25
Figure-16:      Electrical hydraulic valve and manifold             25
Figure-17:      Hydraulic hose                                      26
Figure-18:      Example of hydraulic hoses                          26
Figure-19:      Hose screw fittings                                 26
Figure-20:      Examples of hose fittings                           26
Figure-21:      Hydraulic ram                                       27
Figure-22:      Examples of electrical control panel components     30
Figure-23:      HGV side view                                       35
Figure-24:      HGV top view                                        35
Figure-25:      Earth mover side view                               36
Figure-26:      Earth mover top/cutaway view                        36
Figure-27:      Construction hoists                                 38
Figure-28:      Tower cranes                                        39
Figure-29:      Materials/power hoppers                             41
Figure-30:      Mains electrical controls                           42
Figure-31:      Diaphragm pump                                      43
Figure-32:      Rotary (impeller) pump                              43
Figure-33:      Coaxial cables                                      44
Figure-34:      Fork lifts                                          45
Figure-35:      Refrigeration systems                               46
Figure-36:      Gearing/drive systems                               47
Figure-37:      Bearing & roller systems                            47
Figure-38:      Mixing concrete                                     49
Figure-39:      Soft and hard soldering                             51
Figure-40:      Soldering tools                                     52
Figure-41:      Fluid incendiaries                                  53
Figure-42:      Chemical incendiaries                               53
Figure-43:      Delay fuse                                          54
Figure-44:      Electric fuses                                      54
Figure-45:      Delay timers                                        56
Figure-46:      Hole burning and strip soldering                    57

Table--00:      Calculated sink times                               48

1. INTRODUCTION

Volume I of this series introduced basic information on tools, what
they are, how to use them, and methods to organise your work to prevent
you collar being felt by the authorities. Volume I was written in simple
terms to allow anyone to 'log on' to the issues involve - a similar
approach has been taken with this volume, but there is one additional
problem. To really understand you are going to have to get out there
and do some of this work.

Let's now recap where we are in association with Volume I...

This guide is not really about 'noble' sabotage - for example people
clamping themselves to diggers on road projects. It's about taking
action against the everyday destruction of the environment - it's about
afforestation, polluting industries, and the ceaseless growth of urban
areas while inner cities are left derelict. Specifically, it's about
sabotaging machinery, and getting away with it. In short - 'economic
sabotage'.

One important point - whatever you do you should always ensure that
you never cause harm to other people, or to the Earth that you are
trying to protect. Eco-sabotage should never be conducted in a rage
or anger - that way lies plain destruction and vandalism. Eco-sabotage
should be planned, calmly executed, and the extent should reflect the
damage that the evil-doer is inflicting on the Earth.

Terrorism is only a valid concept when it seeks to alarm or coerce
the public into following someone's political viewpoint. I do not see
that as an issue here since we should always strive to hit specific
targets, affecting only that target and causing no 'collateral damage',
and never, ever, harming human life or the environment. Unfortunately,
as many people in organisations such as the Animal Liberation Front
have found out, the tag of terrorist is easy abused by the authorities
and the judicial system, with the consequence that offenders are given
exceptionally harsh treatment.

Anyhow - back to this Volume.

In the first Volume the idea of developing toolkits was developed,
and in particular the idea that the activist should set up a 'stash'
of equipment so that incriminating evidence was never kept at their
home or workplace. Also, the idea of what tools are, and how to use
them, was introduced. Finally, there was general background on how
to manage your 'hobby' in such a way as to avoid detection.

This volume now develops these themes further - primarily there is
more detail on the types of equipment you may be confronted with and
how to 'handle' the situation in a way which creates the highest level
of economic damage. This is, of course, if that is what your tactic
is. Remember from Volume I that the level of response must be proportionate
to the level of 'insult'. You do not demolish someone's home for pouring
oil down a drain, and conversely supergluing the locks at the offices
of a multi-national company has little effect. It is really up to you
set the level of response, but at the same time you must be prepared
to accept the consequence of that action. Also, it is always important
to run a series of hits, where there is scope for a 'repeat visit'
to the site, in such a way that you can escalate the impact each time
if your warnings are not taken notice of.

Unlike Volume I, which was fairly mild in its advocacy of economic
sabotage, this guide introduces the use of highly controversial agents
- incendiary devices. My recommendation is, if you immediately turn
straight to this section and start planning your hit, see a psychiatrist,
or turn yourself in at the nearest police station, or both. Any device
that causes the level of damage that incendiaries cause is an absolute
last resort tactic - it should not be something that is considered
in the ordinary course of proceedings.

However, there are other options. Incendiary devices can cause indiscriminate
damage, but by designing and placing your device carefully you can
hit the target and cause minimal 'collateral damage'. Even so, if you
go around burning holes in people's earth movers, you will attract
a high level of interest from the authorities. In terms of 'escalation',
there is a great deal of difference between just disabling equipment,
and simultaneously taking out everything on a site in one go.

Finally - "Let's be careful out there". Volume I introduced fairly
low-key methods of sabotage. If you start messing around with high
voltage cables, or pipelines, or just pneumatic/hydraulic pipes that
are under pressure, you are going to hurt yourself if you do not take
the appropriate steps to mitigate the risk. Read the health and safety
sections of both Volume I and this volume - and use them. Dead eco
saboteurs do not help the cause as good as live ones.

Ozymandias
July 1996

2. BASIC MECHANICAL SYSTEMS

2.1 The basic elements of mechanical systems

The front cover of this volume shows a Bedford van, not as a simple
metal box, but as a collection of complex interconnected parts. To
do real damage to any system this is how you must look at the target
of the hit - a collection of vulnerable parts.

An earth mover, for example, is not a simple machine. It is a complex
system comprising...
Mechanical systems with moving parts, hinges, cables and bearings;
   Engines, using petrol or diesel as a fuel, which provide power to
the whole system;
   Electric motors which convert electrical energy into mechanical motion,
or turn compressors or pumps to move fluids;
   Hydraulic and pneumatic systems which develop the large forces necessary
to drive the machines excavators;
   Electric systems which run lights, valves and the control instrumentation;
   'Static' devices, not directly involved in the main system, such
as locks, radios/communications equipment, and security systems.

All these elements come together to 'create' that which we call an
'earth mover'. Therefore, to effectively disable, or preferable write
off the subject of the hit, you need to have a working knowledge of
each of the individual systems. The alternative would be to learn about
the system itself - a standard JCB for example, But learning about
the principles of how these machines work in general is preferable
because the knowledge is more easily applied to any situation you may
encounter.

In terms on machines in general, when you conduct your scoping exercise
while planning the hit, or while you assess the 'problem' when you
are first presented with the system you wish to disable, you should
ask yourself a simple series of questions...
1.   Where does the power come from [the source]? (e.g., electrical,
engines, electric motors, etc.);
2.   How is the power moved around [the conduit]? (e.g., electrical cables,
mechanical rods/shafts, hydraulic or pneumatic systems);
3.   Where is power expended [the sink]? (e.g., hydraulic rams, electric
motors, mechanical arms or electrical components);
4.   How is the movement or conversion of power regulated [control systems]?
(e.g., valves, control panels, switches or automated computer controllers)
5.   Does the operation of these parts involve lubricating or cooling
of devices? (e.g., engine oil sump, pipes delivering lubricating fluid,
chillers/refrigerators, air cooling or water cooling)

By systematically taking these five criteria, and applying them to
your system (with practice it will become second nature) you will be
able to identify the key parts of the system, and hence the key weaknesses.
You can then plan the appropriate steps and requisition the appropriate
tools with which to carry out the hit.

For example, in an earth mover, the major mechanical parts are built
of extremely tough materials because they must survive in a harsh environment,
under extreme load conditions. For this reason taking on the arms of
the machine, or cutting its hydraulic system, causes little real damage.
On the other hand, the fact that the entire system relies on the provision
of power from one diesel engine means that by taking out that engine,
using grinding powder in the sump or ball bearings in the cylinders,
you deny power to the system. On the other hand a complex manufacturing
plan may rely on computerised control systems, in which case damaging
these is more effective than removing the power supply, or damaging
individual parts of the machines.

2.2 Power sources

All mechanisms need energy to function. This energy can be derived
from a number of sources...
   Electrical energy: Electricity supplied in cables, or in more complex
systems, which may be generated from other energy sources within the
system;
   Electrical potential energy: This is really a category used to differentiate
supplied electrical energy from electrical energy stored electrical
energy. There are many systems, from computers to industrial plants
and road vehicles, that rely on the storage of energy within some form
of battery to help them operate. Batteries contain 'potential' energy
because it does not actually exist as electrical current, but rather
as charges on the atoms of chemical compound which are release as part
of chemical reactions;
   Chemical energy: Fuels which contain energy, such as petrol, diesel,
and methane or propane gas, can be utilised within machines as a heat
source, or within engines as a source of kinetic energy;
   Kinetic energy: Kinetic basically means movement - that is the turning
of drive shafts or the push/pull of connecting roads. Many pulled units,
farm machinery is the main example, are powered by kinetic energy supplied
by a drive shaft which plugs into the tractor's engine (this is called
a Power Take-Off [PTO]).

Denying the source of energy to any system is the most effective way
of shutting it down - but sometimes this is only a temporary setback
for the operator...
   Destroying or removing the battery from a system is only temporary
because batteries are easily replaced;
   Removing the electrical supply by cutting cables is very temporary
as cables can be replaced in a day. Even a mains trunk cable can be
repaired in just one or two days;
   Removing fuel from the system is very temporary - you only have to
fill up the machine again, or new supplied can be ordered or bought
the same day.

It is therefore obvious that cutting energy sources is only effective
when it includes other forms of damage. For example, rather then just
spiking or removing the fuel from a generator, it is always advisable
to do serious damage to the generator itself. 
However, removing power supplies really comes into its own when speed
of action is necessary. For example, all petrol stations

Safety when cutting power cables (figure 2)
   have a little box on the wall marked, "petrol pumps switch off here".
This enables the fire brigade to turn off power to the pumps in the
event of a fire or spillage. It also means that smashing this box,
or cutting the cables, disables all equipment on the station forecourt
- this is much faster and easier than trying to damage each pump or
cut every pipe.

The only precaution must be to ensure your safety. Any source of energy
is capable of imparting energy to you when you damage it - that can
be fatal. To solve this problem there are simple steps you can take.

Electrical supplies:

Electrical cables should be isolated at the fuse box before cutting.
If this is not possible, use tools with a long insulated handle - such
as an

axe. If in doubt you need to connect a thick copper wire - preferable
coated in plastic - to the tool you are using, and then connect the
other end to a large metal object embedded in the ground (such as a
fence post) or the 'earth' plug of a wall socket (see diagram above).
This will make the electricity earth to ground via the wire rather
than you. As a precaution, you should also wear thick rubber gloves
- for example the type you use for washing up.

Where voltages higher than 415 volts are involved, no amount of earthing
will ensure your safety - splashes of molten metal from the arc generated
when the cables are cut can also injure you. For this reason you should
consider other measure such as burning through the cable with an incendiary
compound (see 'combustion' section).

Batteries:

The batteries on conventional cars or lorries are relatively safe.
The main danger comes from the acid they contain. The risk with these
batteries is when they are on charge because they give off highly explosive
hydrogen gas. Cutting one cable at a time, and then removing the battery
is quite a straightforward process, but a spark near an open cell could
initiate a fire.

Large battery arrays, such as those found on electric milk-floats and
other electric vehicles, present a danger because of the sheer amount
of electrical current they are able to generate. If you short the cables
you will get a small explosion as the current melts and fuses the metal
in the cables. In extreme circumstances, it may also cause other parts
of the electrical installation to short out - perhaps explosively if
electrical 'capacitors' are involved - and catch fire. Again, the basic
instruction is disconnect one terminal or cut only one stand of the
cable at a time. If the cable is 'multi-core' - that is there is more
than one stand of wire within it, strip off some of the electrical
insulation with a Stanley knife and cut one strand of wire at a time.

Again, where large battery arrays are involved with voltages greater
than 24 volts, it is a good idea to earth the tool you are using if
the only option is to cut rather than disconnect cables.

Fuels:

Most fuels are volatile - that is they burn readily with only minor
ignition sources such as bright lights, heat or sparks. Petrol, gases
and some solvents (such as acetone) fall in this category. Other fuels
such as paraffin or diesel are more difficult to ignite.

There are three tactics with fuels - spiking, disconnection or removal:
   Spiking involves the addition of substances to make the fuel burn
under extreme conditions. Adding sugar or syrup to fuel produced large
amounts of carbon which block the cylinders and valves of engines.
On the other hand adding a litre or two of acetone to the fuel tank
of a car, if it doesn't dissolve the pipes or the carburettor float
first, causes the cylinder temperatures to rise to the point where
pistons or cylinder vales melt and fuse;
   Disconnection - basically means that you cut the fuel line. This
in itself can cause great problems because by cutting the line the
fuel escapes to cause pollution, or it covers you. There are a number
of alternatives. You could close off valves in the fuel lines and then
superglue them shut (it's generally not a good idea to solder or weld
a fuel line!). The other option, which applies to metal fuel lines,
is to crimp them shut using pliers. It is possible to use a hammer
(sometimes the blunt end of a chisel or screwdriver proves an effective
tool to use) to flatten the fuel line at two points, but this may cause
the contents to ignite. If you crimp the fuel line in two places, and
then cut the line in between the two, the fuel should not escape.
   Removal - quite simply, just take the stuff away.

Drive shafts/PTOs:

By the very fact that they carry large amounts of energy (the technical
term is 'torque'), drive shafts and PTOs are constructed of very hard
and tough materials. This makes them very difficult things to cut,
bend, or generally damage. However, almost all drive shafts rely on
bearings and rotating joints to keep them turning efficiently. You
should therefore attack the joints and bearings rather than the shaft
itself.

The simplest way to damage a baring is to inject grinding powder, suspended
in lubricating oil or grease, into the bearing. Over the course of
a few hours this reworks the running surfaces and makes everything
a little more 'loose'. With universal joints, if you can bang out one
of the spindles on which the joint pivots then you can disconnect the
drive shaft.

The other option is to unbalance the drive shaft. As the shaft rotates
very quickly, and the shaft is very heavy, it must be in perfect balance
along the axis of rotation. Any deviation causes the drive shaft to
vibrate. If you add weight to just one side of the drive shaft - by
strapping a weight around one side of it - the vibration could damage
the bearings and joints before the operator notices. On larger shafts
there are actually small weights which screw in and out of the shaft
to vary the balance. Screwing the weights fully in on one side, and
fully out on the other, will perform the same function as strapping
a weight to the shaft. It also helps if you superglue the bolts too.

Alternatively - and this works very well with the propeller shafts
of boats - just connect a length of steel cable to the shaft, and wrap
it around the shaft. With luck, especially in enclosed spaces, the
cable will snarl up and unbalance the shaft. However, you should always
make sure that the rotating cable will not injure someone - a cable
rotating at speed can be lethal.

Finally, with the PTOs of tractors or construction plant, if the drive
shaft is not connected, just try and jam up the connection socket.
The best way to do this is to melt solder onto the surfaces of the
socket using a blowtorch - but don't forget to clean the metal surfaces
of grease and rust using petrol or solvent, and then burning the residue
off with the blowtorch, before you start, or the solder won't stick.

2.3 Power conduits

After power has been produced from the source, it must be moved around
to where the work needs doing. There are a number of ways this can
happen...
   Electrical power is moved along cables, through a series of switches,
fuses and control instrumentation;
   Where pressurised fluids or gases are used, pipes and vales regulate
the flow of fluid to its destination;
   Where kinetic energy is involved, gear, shafts and tension cables
(steel cables, rubber/canvas drive belts or rope) transmit the energy;
   Especially where telecommunications equipment is concerned, the 'information
'
can be carries as light within fibre optic cables, or as a radio wave
within coaxial cables.

Essentially, what we are trying to do here is severe the flow of energy
along the conduit. With electrical, communications or fluid cables
this is simple - just cut it. But you should beware when cutting fluid
cables in case the fluid or gas in the pipe is still under pressure.
Again with electrical cables, as outlined above in relation to electrical
sources, you should make sure that the cable is not live before you
cut it, or take appropriate steps to protect yourself when cutting.

Thew problem here is that cables and pipe are relatively easy things
to replace, relatively quickly. They are also relatively cheap. What
we must do, in order to create the greatest expense and delay, is to
damage or remove those parts of the system which control the flow of
energy through the conduit:
   With electrical cables, switches, fuses, instrumentation and electromechanic
al
relays all act to channel the flow of energy. By damaging these items
you can disable a piece of equipment while repairs are made. With very
specialised equipment, spares will not be readily available either.
The key items to hit are relays, switches, and most importantly gauges,
computers or programmable logic controllers (PLCs) and instrument panels;
   With hydraulic systems, the pipes are nearly always reinforced with
hardened steel, making them very difficult to cut without very large
and expensive bolt-cutters. The simple method is to drill the pipe,
or even better, smash the valves which control the flow of the fluid.
On basic mechanically controlled systems the valves are controlled
by levers, so you should just rip off the levers, and perhaps smash
the valve housing. On electromechanical systems electrically powered
relays operate the vales. These are quite easy to disable because you
can rip out the electrical cables, but more importantly, you should
try and remove the 'solenoid' (the electrical coil and magnet) mounted
on the top of the valve (easily identified as the electrical cable
is plugged/connected into it);
   With pneumatic systems, the pipes are not normally reinforced, but
the system is controlled by the same type of valves as hydraulic systems,
so the same rules apply;
   With telecommunications systems, just cut the coaxial or fibre-optic
cables, but you should try to access the transmitter units and smash
them, or rip off any visible transmitter antennae. Alternatively, with
coaxial cables, just fire a few dozen staples into the cable. The short
circuit may damage the output transistors of the transmitter;
   Kinetic/mechanical systems are more difficult. Drive shafts, as explained
above, are difficult to damage, but they are susceptible if they have
exposed bearings or rotating joints. The best place to damage any mechanical
system is at the gearbox - just fill it with sand, or better still,
grinding powder. If the gearbox does not contain an kind of lubricating
fluid, fill it with epoxy 'potting compound', effectively sealing the
moving the parts in a block of hard plastic. Drive belts can be a problem.
Smaller ones are easily cut as they are generally rubber with a canvas
reinforcement. Larger ones, and things like conveyor belts, have steel
reinforcement and so tin snips, side cutters or bolt-cutters will be
required. Hacksaws will work, but it can be slow going. With drive
cables, such as those on cranes, the cable is normally made of tensile
steel which is difficult to cut without heavy duty side cutters or
bolt cutters. Hacksawing can take a long time.

It must be stressed that the simplest and most direct method is to
damage the control systems. Even on hydraulic systems, where the system
relies on a pump, it is still more effective to take out the control
systems because the pumps are so solidly made.

2.4 Power sinks

When the power has been moved to where the work takes place, it can
be used. Energy can be expended in many ways - from the hook at the
end of the winch cable that lifts the load, to the computer at the
end of the mains cable. For this reason, there is no general approach
to damaging the appliance to which power is supplied. In general it
is possible to say this...
   All electrical equipment should be damaged by hammering chisels/
screwdrivers into it, or if this is difficult pour acid or salted water
inside it;
   All mechanical equipment should be 'fouled up' using wire, dismantled
using tools, filled with sand or grinding powder, or just filled up
with quick setting epoxy 'potting compound';
   All hydraulic/pneumatic appliances should have holes drilled in the
cylinders.

But when considering the above options, you should consider the time
factors involved. Sometimes effectively taking out the power conduit
or source will be as effective, but more importantly quicker, than
trying to damage every part of the system that utilises the energy
supplied to the system.

2.5 Regulation

The regulation of energy was noted above in relation to energy conduits.
Without control systems, machines will not function. For example, why
spend half an hour trying to get into the locked engine compartment
of a earth mover when you can just smash through or remove the window
of the cab, and smash, damage or remove all of the controls levers,
switches and instrumentation?

When taking on control and instrumentation panels there are a few general
tips:
   Any accessible electrical cables should be cut or ripped out. If
you have a number of cables bound together or fixed in a 'loom', the
simplest thing is to loop the mass of cables around a screwdriver or
crowbar, and then twist around and around. As the cables twist and
tighten on the bar, the tension will snap or rip them from their fixings;
   Any gauges, displays or meters should be smashed. The best way to
do this is to take a long, thin (about 3-4mm diameter), blunt screwdriver,
and hammer it through the face of the dial. If it goes through easily,
try again - unless you encounter resistance as you hammer it through
you are not doing any damage;
   Computers and PLCs should, if possible, be removed and disposed of
in the nearest canal or ditch. If this is not possible you should take
the same approach as that outlined for gauges and meters. If the construction
does not allow you to hammer in the screwdriver, then use the wedge
end of a crowbar and hammer it through using a lump hammer (if available);
   Any key locks or key switches should be superglued;
   Conventional switches or levers should have the arms broken off.
You can do this with a hammer. Sometimes the levers and knobs are fixed
in place by small screws in the handle - if this is the case just loosen
the screw, pull of the handle, and get rid of it off the site. This
then leaves the spindle which the knob or lever was fixed too - this
is best broken off using a hammer and chisel. For push buttons there
is only one simple solution - either hammer then button through the
face of the control panel, or superglue it in place.

However, sometimes there is just not time to do all of the above. In
these cases the only (and ultimate) solution is to douse the control
panel in petrol or diesel and torch it. This unfortunately attracts
a lot of attention, and so you may with to use some sort of time-delay
incendiary device to do this.

2.6 Lubrication

Finally, many mechanical systems require careful lubrication to keep
friction and wear to a minimum. Many gearboxes, engines and drive shafts
contain spindles, cogs and bearings which must be lubricated to keep
friction to a minimum, and remove excess heat. There are two basic
methods for working on lubricating systems:
   Drain it: Drain the lubricating oil into a container (unless you
are certain the oil will not cause pollution). Of course the operator
will notice this, or the machine will indicate a low oil pressure,
so this can only really work on a machine which is already running
(in which case beware because the oil will be hot and under pressure),
or a machine which you are sure you will be able to start up. If you
cannot find or are unable to remove the plug in the oil sump, the simplest
alternative is to drill a small hole through the sump using a hand
or power drill.
   Spike it: If you have access to the sump filler on the engine, gearbox,
or the lubricating nipple on the baring, you can inject a mixture of
oil and grinding powder into the machine. Grinding powder expensive,
but especially on bearings, it is the only option because only a very
fine power can be injected into the necessary space. However, on engines
and gearboxes a cheaper option is sand.

3. ENGINE BASED SYSTEMS

3.1 The internal combustion engine

The internal combustion engine is the main source of electrical and
mechanical power for most mobile equipment, and for a large proportion
of all construction plant. An understanding of how engines work, and
how to disable them, is therefore a key part of good sabbing technique.

By and large engines are either run on diesel or petrol - other fuels
such as gas or methanol are available, but these tend to be used rarely,
and so you are unlikely to come across them in great numbers.

3.2 Petrol engines

The engines shown on the following page are rather old (modern car
engines have rather moved on) but they more easily indicate different
functions in the auto engine. Today, many cars have separate electrically
powered fans. Also the distributor and coil system, which controls
the firing of the engine, is being slowly replaced by computer controlled
units.

At its simplest the engine works as follows:
   To start the engine, power from the battery turns over the starter
motor - this automatically engages with the flywheel. When the engine
starts, the motor disengages;
   Fuel from the fuel tank is pumped to the carburettor. Here a nozzle
produces a fine mist of petrol to allow it to mix thoroughly with air
drawn in through the air filter;
   Taking just one cylinder - as the cylinder moves down a valve in
the cylinder head opens and the air/fuel mixture is drawn in. At the
bottom of the stroke the valve closes;
   As the piston returns back up the cylinder the air/fuel mixture is
compressed. At the point of maximum compression when the piston is
at the top of its stroke the spark plug sparks and the air/fuel mixture
explodes. The pressure increase caused by the hot gases forces the
piston back down the cylinder;
   When the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, another valve
opens and the exhaust gases are forced out of the cylinder when the
piston travels back up the cylinder again - the cycle is then repeated
all over again;
   The four cylinders (or more - large earth movers can have 16-24 cylinders)
and pistons are arrange so that they all fire at regular intervals.
The power produced is then transferred by the camshaft to rotate the
flywheel and drive the clutch/gearbox and drive shaft;
   Electrical power is generated by the alternator, which is turned
by the rotation of the engine (it is directly coupled by a drive belt
to the crankshaft);
   The valves are controlled by a camshaft which activates the valves
at specific moments. The camshaft is kept in synchronisation by 'timing
chains' or teethed belts which are connected to the camshaft;
   The engine is kept cool by water which is circulated around channels
within the engine/cylinder block. The water is forced around the system
by a pump connected directly to the crankshaft;
   The moving parts of the crankshaft/piston system are kept cooled
and lubricated by oil which is stored in the sump. The oil is also
pumped around the engine/cylinder block by a pump.

Typical auto-engine system (figure 3)

Internal view of the engine (fig. 4)   and   External view of the engine
(fig. 5)

3.3 Diesel engines

The main difference with diesel engine is that they have no sparking
system on diesel engines. Injectors force the fuel/air mixture into
the cylinder. The higher levels of compression used in cylinder then
force the mixture to explode - it is the use of higher compression
which makes the combustion process more efficient in diesel engines.
Apart from this there is little difference between the two engine types.

Another key difference is the use of fuel pumps on petrol engines,
and the suction of fuel by the injectors in diesels. This means that
if a diesel engine runs out of fuel, the fuel system must be 'bled'
to remove the air before it will properly function again (this is not
necessary on a petrol engine).

3.4 Gas engines

Gas engines are becoming increasingly popular as a more efficient and
less polluting alternative to the use of petrol and diesel. They run
on either butane/propane, or liquified petroleum gas (LPG).

Gas engines are broadly similar to diesels in that they directly inject
fuel and air rather than mixing them in a carburettor - but unlike
diesel they still use spark ignition.

Gas engines are present the same general problems in terms of sabbing,
but the main thing to be aware of is that the fuel system uses highly
flammable gases under pressure - therefore it is not a good idea to
cut any fuel lines or damage the injection system - unless you want
to do this deliberately in order to torch the machine. Any spark following
a release of gas, especially if you are still near the machine, could
be fatal. Likewise, trying to make holes in a gas or LPG tank can have
fatal consequences too.

3.5 Basic sabotage of engine systems

When considering how best to damage an engine, most public libraries
provide you with ample help. The numerous range of DIY car maintenance
manuals, on everything from scooters to small vans, give you graphic
descriptions of what certain parts look like, and how to conduct 'maintenance'
on them. I advice you to study this resource closely. You might also
find it useful to enrol on a car maintenance workshop/evening class
at your local technical college.

Coming back to our earlier principles, there are four basic features
of the engine to consider when deciding how best to disable it....
   Energy source         -->   Fuel system;
   Energy conduit/regulator      -->   Fuel injection/ignition system;
   Energy conduit/lubrication   -->   Clutch/gear system;
   Energy source/sink      -->   Electrical system;

Fuel system:

As noted earlier, cutting the fuel lines to a engine is quick and easy,
but can also be easily repaired. It is also a potential source of pollution
of the environment if the fuel contaminates soil, or enters storm drains.
It can also spill all over you.

There are a few simple ways to disable the fuel system of an engine...
   Cut the fuel line at the tank (but this is easily fixed);
   Fill the tank with an foreign material to block the system - soil
or sand are the most usual substances to hand. Basically you keep loading
the stuff into the tank until it's full. This is actually quite problematic
because the tank must be removed and cleaned;
   Put substances into the tank to affect the performance of the fuel
- basically sugar or syrup cause an overload of carbon which clogs
the motor, and high energy hydrocarbon based liquids such as acetone
or hydrazine make the fuel burn so hot it damages the engine. Both
these options can be expensive to fix;
   Smash the fuel pump (petrol engines, and diesels with pumps only)
- relatively simple to fix in a day or too, and cost a little more
than just cutting the fuel line.

Injection/ignition system:

This option is less messy in terms of fuel spilling everywhere, but
holds the risk of starting a fires, especially if the engine is hot.

On a petrol engine, remove the air filter (if there is one) to gain
access to the carburettor. Then, using a cold chisel, hammer the carburettor.
Carburettors are normally made of cast aluminium, and so it won't stand
up to this treatment. To be on the safe side, it is better if you cut
the fuel line first, and douse the whole engine/carburettor with water
the prevent any sparks igniting the fuel.

On diesels, again take your hammer and chisel, and break off the injector,
then stove in the ends of the injectors where they enter the cylinder
block. Injectors are expensive to replace, but stoving in the thread
makes things even harder.

The other option for petrol systems is to rip out the distributor cap
and leads. Also, after removing the cap, hammer the rotor arm and contacts
to create the maximum possible damage.

On newer petrol engines, where ignition and fuel injection is computer
controlled, trace the wires from the spark plugs back to the box or
unit containing the timing system. Then use the standard approach for
electrical appliances - hammer a blunt screwdriver through the unit
once or twice. This is an expensive thing to repair.

Finally, on petrol systems and diesel systems (although its harder
on diesels because the injectors have to be replaced with a torque
wrench to the right tension), take out the spark plug or injector,
and drop one or two ball bearings into one cylinder only - the engine
won't fire properly if you put it in more than one cylinder. Replace
the plug/injector, and make everything as if no one had ever been there.
Then, when the engine is switched on, in just a few minutes the piston
and cylinder head are ruined - this is expensive to cure.

Clutch/gear/differential:

The power train - that is the crankshaft, clutch, gear and differential
system which transfers power from the pistons to the wheels - is vulnerable
only in two respects.

Firstly, the engine sump, the gearbox and the differential (if the
vehicle has one) are all vulnerable to abrasives in their lubricating
oil. Further details on how abrasives can be used are given in Volume
I. There is little problem getting abrasives into the sump - the oil
filler provides a direct route. Getting abrasives into the gearbox
is tricky because of getting access to the filler nozzle. You also
have the same problem with the differential (the differential is the
bevel on the back axle of most heavy lorries/construction plant which
transfers the motion of the drive shaft through 90o to turn the wheels).

The clutch has exactly the opposite problem - it should be kept dry.
If you can release the clutch housing, and spray in a mixture of grease
and sand, it does immense damage to the clutch plates.

The electrical system:

The electrical system essentially consists of the battery, the alternator,
the starter motor, the injector heaters (diesel only), the distributor
cap and sparking coil (petrol only). Some petrol engines, especially
older stationary engines, do not have alternators - instead they have
magnetos (like the dynamos on bicycles) which are directly connected
to the crankshaft.

When considering the electrical system you have three prime targets...
   The battery;
   The alternator;
   The starter motor;
   Cables and fuses.

The battery can be easily removed - that is a straightforward task
of removing each terminal connector and then loosening the retaining
straps/bolts.

The alternator and the starter motor present different problems - mainly
how to damage a well constructed and enclosed electrical device. If
possible try and find an opening in the alternator/starter motor housing.
What you are looking for are bundles of copper wire wound on metal
formers. The simplest way to damage the wires is to use a sharp chisel
or screwdriver to hammer and cut/split individual wires. If this is
difficult, just try and drill your way through the casing into the
coils.

Another other option is to open up a hole in the casing, perhaps with
a drill, insert some sort of small funnel, and then pour acid in to
fill up the casing - the battery is a good source of concentrated sulphuric
acid, but ferric chloride will do just as well.

Finally, for good measure, always cut or rip out any electrical cables.
This can be easily fixed, at much less cost than replacing the alternator
and starter motor, but it's good for annoyance value. Also, if there
is not time to sort out the electrics properly, ripping out the wiring
is very quick. Also keep an eye out for any fuse boxes - a quick swipe
with a hammer or the round end of a crowbar will smash the fuses and
more importantly the fuse holders.

4. MOTOR BASED SYSTEMS

4.1 Types of electric motor

Most electrically powered mechanical equipment contains some sort of
electric motor. By damaging the electric motor, you disable the whole
machine. In practice this can be easy to do since electric motors (with
the exception of those designed to be used in extreme conditions) are
delicate objects which must be kept cool, dry, lubricated, and free
from dust.

There are a wide range of electric motors, in different shapes, sizes
and constructions. You should also be aware that most generator systems
use devices almost identical to electric motors 'in reverse' - by turning
the motor manually you create electricity. Therefore this section could
be equally applied to generator systems.

4.2 DC, AC and 3-phase motors

Motors come in different physical sizes, but they also run on different
electrical supplies. Some run on single phase alternating current (AC)
supplies like you have in your home. Others have 'three phase' supplies,
equivalent to three domestic supplies with the alternating currents
out of phase, to give the motor more power (these are generally used
in industrial plants). Finally, some motors use direct current supplies
- this is mainly when the motor draws its power from batteries, solar
cells, or generators which power 'through' a bank of batteries (most
vehicles use this system).

All motors work on electromagnetism, that is, the action of the electricity
creates a magnetic force within the motor which turns the shaft. AC
and DC systems operate this system rather differently, but the principle
is essentially the same.

The diagrams on the previous page show the essential parts of electric
motors. Note also that although the workings are similar, they come
in different constructions - some are flange mounted (a good example
of flange mounted motors are pumps, such as hydraulic pumps), and some
are foot mounted (most mechanical systems use foot mounted motors).

The design of electric motors (figures 6-8)

4.3 Generators

As noted above, a similar device to a motor used in reverse can create
electricity. The energy expended by turning the shaft creates electrical
energy which flows out of the device.

When sabotaging generators the considerations are essentially the same,
but you must always consider the practicality of your actions (as noted
earlier in this volume). By sabotaging a generator you deny equipment
electrical power - but a generator is easily replaced. On a work/cost/benefit
analysis it may be a better option to actually sabotage the equipment
that the generator powers rather then just doing the generator itself.
However, in certain situations (such as building sites) taking out
a generator can be much faster than doing every piece of machinery.

4.4 Basic sabotage of electric motors

There are various options for disabling electric motors. Essentially
it is a matter of cutting the supply of energy to the system, damaging
the moving parts of the system, damaging the electrical circuits or
attacking the bearings/workings using abrasives or glue.

Electrical supply:

Cutting the supply to an electric motor can be done in a few seconds
- taking all the normal precautions when cutting high voltage cables.
The only problem here is that the cables can be very quickly reconnected
by even amateur electricians. In practice when disconnecting the supply
you have to do a little more.

Many electrical motors do not simply have the power cable entering
the motor - often it is necessary to have additional electrical components
to modify the electrical current, or proven the emission of electrical
noise into the power system. On larger electrical motors the electrical
components needed to do this are large, and are often mounted within
a metal enclosure on the side of the motor housing. Smaller motors
may actually have the components just wired onto the outside.

Motor power control (figure 9)

The diagram above shows a typical layout for the enclosure. The cover
plate is held in place by screws or bolts - these can either be removed,
or if they are fixed (or riveted) drilled out. Beneath the plate you
will find a few electrical components (normally cylindrical or disc
like, perhaps some fuses, and a number of terminal where the wires
from the mains cable and the motor are connected.

You now have three options...
   Forget removing the cover, just smash the entire enclosure off the
side of the motor - effective but noisy;
   Cut the wires inside the box, and if possible remove the electrical
components and dispose of elsewhere;
   More infuriating to your target, carefully remove the cover plate,
remove the components/cut wires, then replace the cover plate and fix
with superglue and/or threadlock on the screws.

Taking this approach creates more difficulty. It is highly likely that
the operator will have to employ professional motor servicing people
to fix the damage - which might take a day or two.

Moving parts:

The power from an electric motor is used for something - the simplest
option if easy access to the coupling between the shaft and the drive
mechanism is exposed it to damage or disconnect it. Drive shafts are
hard things to break, so this will normally entail unscrewing things
or taking bolts out.

Alternatively, you could weld or solder up the shaft where it leaves
the motor. If there is no surge protection or fuses in the system (possible
on old equipment) this will burn out the motor when it is turned on.

Another option is to damage the air cooling fan. Electrical motors
produce large quantities of heat as they run. On large motors this
heat cannot be dissipated quickly enough through the metal body of
the motor, and so air is blow through the motor housing by a fan connected
to the shaft.

There are two simple options to make the motor overheat:
   Remove the fan - but replace the motor housing so no one notices.
Eventually the motor may overheat and burn out, but this is dependent
upon the load put on it;
   The best option for a motor that is actually running is to pour fine
dry sand, or some sort of powder, into the fan, or the air inlet (depending
on where the air enters the housing). This will be sucked through the
motor and will either gunge up, melt or abrade the internal workings
of the motor until it either burns out, falls apart, or catches fire.

Electrical circuits:

The flaw in any motor is the integrity of the hundreds of feet of copper
cable that are wound in coils within the motor. If you can break or
cut some of these cables the whole motor will have to be replaced 
which could take some time.

There are four main ways of doing this:
   If the cables are exposed enough, cut them with side cutters or a
small hacksaw blade (copper is soft and cuts easily using a hacksaw
blade on its own - not actually set in its frame holder);
   If it is difficult to get at the cables, or they are some distance
in, use a screwdriver or chisel to part the coils;
   Pour acid over the coils or inside the motor housing - do not do
this when the motor is running or you'll splash acid everywhere!;
   Tip some form of home-made incendiary compound into the motor housing
and set it off (this makes the biggest mess of all).

There is another option for breaking the electrical circuits. On some
motors power must be transferred to the coils of wire which rotate
on the shaft. To do this there are a set of electrical contacts (called
brushes) and a metal contact surface called the commutator. You should
be able to remove the brushes fairly easily (often they just screw
in on the end of springs) and get rid of them. Better still, if you
can see the commutator (perhaps after removing the brushes) pour acid
over it. The corrosion this causes can only be fixed by taking the
motor apart.

Bearings:

Small motors do not have bearings - big ones have various types depending
upon the amount of energy they put out. The easiest way to damage bearings
is to pour abrasives such as sand or grinding powder into them. Sometime
the abrasive has to be suspended in grease to get it into the bearing.

Glue:

There are two options for gluing up the workings of a motor:
   On small motors, you can put epoxy on/around the shaft to stop it
turning;
   Most effectively on large motors, pour epoxy potting compound into
the motor housing and let it set.

Glue tends to be an expensive option for damaging motors, but it can
be used to best effect where you want to damage something very specifically
- the motor mechanism controlling part of a larger machine for example.

5. PNEUMATICS

5.1 Pneumatic systems

Pneumatic systems use pressurised air to make things move (for example,
pistons), to hold things up (for example, car tyres), or to move things
(for example, air lines inside hopper feeder tubes).

(figure 10)

   
Dealing with pneumatic systems poses some dangers: if you puncture
the balloon tyres on an earth mover they may rip open and injure you.
If you puncture a high pressure air line, small particles of flying
dust or metal may damage your eyes.

Pneumatic systems are used mainly in the following situations:
   Mechanical systems in industry, mainly using piston/cylinders to
move rods or levers;
   On automotive equipment air brakes are widely used where large amounts
of energy need to be used quickly (e.g. braking systems for lorries
and trains);
   Many hoppers and material storage systems use streams of air to move
dust or small particles.

Again taking our earlier analysis, in pneumatic systems there are sources
of energy, methods for transporting that energy, and then methods for
expending that energy. Compressors take atmospheric air and squash
it - creating air at high pressure. Strong pipes then carry this high
pressure air to where it is needed. This air can then be used in a
number of ways.

5.2 Compressors

A compressor is basically a large pump, operating at high speed. It
takes air of volume X, and reduces this volume by factor Y, so increasing
the pressure proportionately. This process expends a lot of energy,
and also creates a lot of heat (you may have found when pumping up
a bike tyre that the end of the pump gets hot).

In fixed locations compressors are normally electrically powered. On
mobile equipment they are engine driven. This provides 'two bites of
the cherry' in terms of sabotage. You either take on the energy source
- be it the engine or the electric motor, or you take on the compressor
itself.

The first obvious flaw in the compressors design is the air intake
- this is normally covered with some form of fabric filter or gauze.
By removing this cover you can pour fine power or small abrasive particles
into the air intake. On smaller compressors, pouring resin/glue into
the intake will have a similarly damaging effect. But beware, the effect,
especially on a large compressor, may be rapid and severe. If possible
rig up some system to remotely pour in the material, or throw it in
from a safe distance.

Next, there are the control systems of the compressor itself. Compressors
working from engines are normally very simple affairs, but large industrial
compressors are very complicated machines, with complex control mechanisms.
If time is short, damaging the control mechanisms is the easiest option.
This is best done with the compressor not working - most large compressors
are fitted with 'emergency stop' buttons, and simply hitting this will
shut down the system. You then can work on the control boards, BUT
BEWARE, stopping the compressor does not isolate power from the electrical
systems!

Another important part of large compressors is lubrication - in some
situations this may also act as a coolant. Where there is no other
option, draining the lubricant or coolant will normally cause the shutdown
of the compressor - either because it seizes up or because the control
systems detect the change and cause automatic shutdown.

Finally, you may be tempted to damage the main airline leaving the
compressor. If the compressor is operation this could be lethal. If
you do this with the compressor off, it may injure someone when the
system starts. The pressures involved make it too risky. The safer
option is to take the air lines further down the system on the smaller
bore pipes (the smaller the pipe... the less the capacity for air flow...
the safer it is to cut).

One last thing - do not get a compressor confused with a chiller. They
can look similar, but the main way to tell them apart is that the main
movement of air is into a compressor, but out of a chiller. Also, the
air leaving a chiller is warm, and there is normally a lot of water
swilling around.

5.3 Air lines

Air lines are very simple things. They are pipes that carry air under
pressure from the compressor to where it is needed. But air lines are
very dangerous. If you cut a long flexible (plastic or rubber) tube,
it will begin whipping around, and could injure anyone stood nearby.
Likewise, any metal air line with a diameter of more than 10mm could
contain a lot of energy - cutting it might cause shrapnel to hit you,
and the hiss of air from the split will act like a steam whistle, which
could damage your hearing.

In general, if an air line is made of steel, it is because it is meant
to carry a lot of pressure - so you might consider not cutting it.
Flexible or plastic lines carry lower pressures, and are easier to
cut.

A safe way to damage larger air lines, in a way which is difficult
to find, is to hand drill then with a small - 1 or 2 mm - drill. If
you do this in enough places, the air leakage will not be dangerous,
but the leakage will be significant enough to affect the system.

5.4 Cylinders and motors

One of the main uses for compressed air in industry is to make things
move - from printing machines to advanced robotic assembly systems.
The main component in these systems is the pneumatic cylinder.

Cylinders work 'in reverse' to an average bike pump. Air is inject
at one end or the other. This moves the piston inside the cylinder,
and the rod connected to it. The power with which this takes place
is proportional to the diameter of the piston - the greater the more
power.

Unlike hydraulic systems, where fluid is conserved, in pneumatic systems
the compress air is always released. Whereas a hydraulic ram needs
to be pushed in both directions, the pressure in the 'live' side of
the cylinder pushes against atmospheric pressure (which is much lower),
and the piston moves. To make the piston go back and forth it is therefore
necessary to have two-way valves which allow the air to flow out of
the cylinder, but switch to allow high pressure air in when the piston
needs to go back. A simple way to disable the cylinder is to damage
or remove this valve. In cylinders where fast movement is needed the
valve will be located on the cylinder, but otherwise you will have
to trace the pipes back to where the valve is located. Sometimes the
two-way valve is incorporated into the mechanical or electromechanical
switch which controls the cylinder - in which case you can do even
more damage.

There is a very simple way to disable cylinders - cut the pipes leading
to them. This of course is easily fixed. If you have more time there
are three other options:

Typical pneumatic cylinder (fig. 11)

      On many cylinders there is a large nut on the front of the cylinder
which the rod emerges through. If you undo this nut, the seal and bush
which supports the rod come apart;
   If time permits, there are four or more tie-bars which hold the two
ends of the cylinder together. If you undo the nuts/screws on one end
the cylinder falls apart;
   A good, quick, and fairly expensive option is to drill through the
wall of the cylinder - but make sure there's no air in the cylinder
first!

Air motors look similar to small electric motors - except they run
on compressed air. They are very well built, and so are difficult to
damage. The simplest way to deal with them is to inject mastic or resin
into the air input. If you really want to make a mess, inject as much
glue as possible, then reconnect the air line and turn it on for a
few seconds.

5.5 Tyres and balloons

Another example of systems are inflated vehicle tyres. These fall into
two types:
   Tyres are fitted to mainly road going vehicles, and either have inner
tubes which hold the air, or are designs to hold the air in on their
own (tube-less tyres). The rubber tyres is also strengthened by steel
belts;
   Balloon tyres are used primarily on off-road vehicles and construction
plant. They have a large surface area to spread the load across the
ground - this means that heavy construction vehicles can move across
soft unmade ground. Most balloon tyres do not have inner-tubes. Balloon
tyres are problematic to deal with - mainly because of the thickness
of the rubber/belting and the volume of air they contain.

The most straightforward way to damage balloons is to use a small drill
and drill through the wall (but beware because the vehicle will tip
as the tyre deflates). There are two options with normal tyres. You
can drill through the tyres, but it is often simpler and quicker to
cut off the valve of the inner tube with side cutters - but put a rag
or something soft over the top of the valve before you cut in case
it flies off as the air comes out.

5.6 Basic sabotage of pneumatic systems

How you tackle pneumatic systems will depend upon the accessibility
of the parts of the system, and how much time you have.

If you have access to the compressor, the simplest option would be
to stop the system using any emergency shutdown systems, and then disable
the compressor. The only thing to beware of is that on electrical powered
systems the power will still be live - although this can be solved
by finding the junction box/isolator for the compressor and switching
it off.

If the compressor is not accessible, then you have two options:
   You can damage the air distribution system. This involves either
cutting the air lines (plastic lines are easily cut with side-cutters,
metal ones can be sawn) or damaging the control vales. The obvious
precaution here is do not cut large pipes while the system is active
- drill them instead.
   You can damage the air cylinders/motors to stop the system working.
Methods for doing this were given earlier.

Where no part of the system is accessible except the air intake - this
is normally in factories - then you will have to load oil, or some
form of powder, into the air intake. This will just clog the filter
- so if you can puncture any accessible filters that will help enormously.

The quickest method to disable to entire system will be to take the
power source away - either disable the engine driving the compressor
(this is the setup of mobile systems) or isolate the electrical supply
and burn the cables/control systems (this works on fixed systems).

6. HYDRAULICS

6.1 Hydraulic systems

Hydraulic systems work in a similar way to pneumatic systems, but they
are different in three respects:

(figure 12)

   
   The use of an non-compressible fluid as opposed to a compressible
gas means that much higher pressure can be produced within the system.
The increased pressure also means that the equipment is more robust
and difficult to damage;
   Instead of working against atmospheric pressure, hydraulic fluid
is conserved, and so hydraulic cylinders must be pumped in both directions.
This means that the control valves are more complicated;
   The use of a more viscose and more dense fluid as opposed to a gas
means that hydraulic systems move slower than pneumatics.

6.2 Hydraulic pumps

The source of power in a hydraulics system is the pump. This takes
hydraulic fluid from the sump/tank and raises it to a higher pressure.
The fluid then circulates through the system, much in the same way
as pneumatic systems.

Like any other pump the hydraulic pump has an inlet pipe - this sucks
hydraulic fluid in. The pistons or impellers in the pump then raise
the pressure of this fluid, and it emerges at the fluid outlet (this
is often the smaller of the pipes connected to the pump, and it is
easily identifiable as the hottest if the pump is running). Caution
must be exercised if you tamper with an operational pump - as with
pneumatic systems if tampered with the high-pressure output from the
pump could spray hot fluid over you, or burst/fail explosively. It
is often easier, if the source of fluid is not accessible, to deal
with the hydraulic control systems rather than take on the pump itself.

As noted above, because of the higher pressures used in hydraulic systems,
the components of that system tend to be incredibly well built. This
is especially so for the pump. To disable a hydraulic pump is quite
difficult - you must either remove its energy source (either an electric
motor, electrical connection, or an engine), or you must try and take
it apart. The latter can be very difficult. A third option would be
to spike the fluid with abrasive, but this might not have a very quick
effect.

Typical hydraulic pumps (fig. 13/14)

Manual valve and manifold (figure 15)   and   Electrical valve and
manifold (figure 16)

6.3 Valves and switches

Different types of hydraulic system have different types of control
mechanism. At its simplest a system might comprise a sump, a pump,
a ram (piston), and a 'changeover' switch which pumps fluid alternately
to each end of the ram to move it back and forth. More complex systems
may have one or more pumps, serving a large number of rams or hydraulic
motors (similar to air motors).

How the control systems are actuated can also differ; some are mechanical
- you pull a lever to activate the valve; some are electrical - you
press a button to activate the valve; and some are electromechanical
- that is an electrical system might activate a road or cable which
then pulls a lever which activates the valve.

How you tackle these different control systems will depend upon the
target. Mechanical systems can be dismantled. Breaking them is very
difficult because they are normally made from cast metal bolted together
with high-tensile steel bolts. Electrical systems are simpler - the
electrical connections are vulnerable, and the control panel itself
may be easily modified. Normally the electrical part of the valve is
in a separate housing on the top or side of the valve, and is often
less sturdily built - in these cases more direct action against the
valve is possible.

Electromechanical systems are difficult to explain, because they differ
so widely. Tackling them is really a combination of the two approaches
outlined above - you tackle both the electrical sections of the system
and the mechanical parts.

Whatever the switching system, all valves will be connected to some
sort of 'manifold', where oil under pressure is distributed to different
parts of the hydraulic system. Often the manifold is part of/located
beneath the main switches. Damaging the manifold, or removing the valves
from it, is therefore a sure way of disabling the whole system.

Construction and designs of hydraulic hoses and hydraulic connectors
(figures 17-20)

6.4 Pipes

One of the needs in the hydraulic system is to move energy - the oil
under pressure - to where it is needed. This is done using two types
of pipe:
   Rigid Pipes: These are generally made of metal, with a diameter and
thickness representative of the quantities and pressures of oil they
carry;
   Flexible pipes (hoses): These are made of rubber composite materials
- and can be armoured inside to make then puncture of tear resistant.

There are two basic options for sabotage - you either cut or drill.
Cutting can be difficult, particularly with large heavy metal pipes.
Likewise drilling can be also difficult on reinforced/armoured hoses.

With hoses there is another option though - you can unscrew them. Generally
hoses have metal screw connectors on each end - most of these can be
easily unscrewed if you have a spanner big enough for the job. Of course
just removing a hose does not cause a lot of damage, so often the most
effective method is to remove the hose (carefully plugging the holes
to stop too much fluid leaking out), fill the hose with an abrasive
such as sand, iron filings or small steel screws, and then replace
the hose.

Cutting larger pipes and hoses can be time consuming - although small
hoses may cut easily with bolt cutters, or good side cutters. In these
instances you might consider drilling the pipe/hose with the small
(2mm) drill - the end result is that the owner of the equipment will
have to replace the part, which saves you the job of removing it yourself.
Be aware that metal pipes can be welded up, so if you do drill metal
pipes make a few holes, or better still, drill the hole right on the
side of a screw fitting or joint of some kind (this makes welding more
difficult as it affects the use of the screw fitting).

Typical hydraulic ram  (figure 21)

6.5 Rams

Hydraulic rams do the actual 'work' in hydraulic systems - thus because
they must withstand great stress they tend to be extremely well built,
much more so than air cylinders.

In general I would say that it's not worth taking on a hydraulic ram
if you are short or time - it's much quicker to just go for the pump,
sump or pipes. However, it you do have time you could try drilling
through the ram casing/tube, or trying to damage/remove the end bush.
Another option is to remove the flexible hoses and swap them around,
or remove the pipe/hose, inject abrasive materials into the ram, and
then replace the pipe.

Don't forget also Newton's Third Law of Motion - 'for every action
there is an equal and opposite reaction'. The hydraulic ram must be
fixed to something in order to anchor it. If you can undo these fixings
so that the ram is not anchored to anything, it doesn't do its job.

6.6 Sump and fluid

Perhaps the greatest flaw of the hydraulic system is its need for oil
- but unfortunately oil is relatively cheap so depriving the system
of oil has no great long term effect. Also, removing oil can have serious
environmental consequences. So we have to work in ways which eliminate/minimise
the spill of oil, but still render the system unusable. This essentially
means finding ways to contaminate the oil to make it useless.

There are three straightforward methods...
   Where time is short, just fill the sump with material - nuts, bolts,
sand, dirt - anything that will clog the system (this is my preference
in any case). Water doesn't have any particular damaging effect on
the system, but it will prevent the system working efficiently.
   If you can remove the oil filter (if there is one) to spike the filter
papers, you can put abrasive substances like polishing/grinding powder,
or sand, into the sump. Over time this will cause damage throughout
the system.
   If you don't mind getting messy, and you can get access to the outlet
from the sump, pack clay or some plastic substance into the pipe -
as much as you can. If you are lucky the pump won't be able to suck
oil, and if it does, it will clog the oil filter or the pump.

The only thing to beware is that when fiddling with the sump, try not
to splash too much fluid on your skin, or more crucially, in your eyes.
Some people have a sensitivity to the substances in the hydraulic fluid
which brings them out in a rash, and getting oil in your eyes can cause
serious damage.

6.7 Basic sabotage of hydraulic systems

How you tackle a system depends on what it is, where it is, and most
importantly how much time you have...
   On all types of system go for the sump first, because spiking that
will disable the whole system. Also, in terms of damage, the sump will
have to be removed and cleaned, with perhaps a few other components,
which will cost a lot of time and money.
   Next go for the control systems/electrics - this will equally stop
the whole system, and will cost money to fix. The problem comes with
mobile equipment because increasingly the cabs of vehicles are alarmed.
Stationary equipment is much more easily damaged in this respect, if
you can get access to the controls.
   Hoses next, if they are the sort that you can cut or drill easily.
As noted earlier, don't just thing about cutting - unscrewing hoses,
particularly on things like JCBs where the hoses are well made, is
much quicker.
   Rigid pipes last because they can sometimes take time to drill, and
you will have the least effect.

Also you must think of 'quality'. Take a few minutes to study the system
and work at which hoses connect to what, or which control systems actuate
what ram. That way you can tackle the most crucial parts of the system.

Another thing to consider is whether the system is active or not, and
whether, even if the system is turned on, the pipes/hoses are under
pressure due to gravity. An associate was mildly hurt when cutting
the hose on a JCB - the jib of the JCB was raised, and the oil in the
pipe held the jib up against gravity. When the hose was cut, the jib
came down - very quickly!

Likewise, cutting a pipe/hose in an active system can be very dangerous,
if not because of the effect on the system, then because of the hot
oil under pressure it sprays out in every direction. In volume I there
is an illustration of how to drill pipes under pressure - this should
only be attempted on small pipes you can be reasonable sure carry little
pressure.

7. SWITCHGEAR AND INSTRUMENTATION

Nothing works unless it is told to by its electrical or human master.
In modern warfare the first thing to be attacked are the lines of communication.
Likewise the most effective, quick, at expensive way to disable equipment
is to disable the control systems. For example, how would you turn
a computer on if someone removed its 'on/off' switch?

7.1 Controls/switchgear

A good way to disable any system is to disable/damage the control systems.
Especially on more modern systems, where specialist control devices
are made to order, this can be very expensive to fix.

Control systems essentially break down into three groups...
   Switches, levers and actuators: This is where a simple switch operates
something - for example the lights on a car;
   Switching systems/switchgear: This is where the control the user
operates a switch/pushes a button/pulls a lever and engages other systems,
which may be fully or partially automatic, and which then switch themselves
into different states according to preset 'hardwired' timing or mechanical
systems;
   Programmed systems: These are the most modern and involve the use
of computers or 'programmable logic controllers' to coordinate the
switching of different systems - for example in modern manufacturing
equipment.

Note also that these switching systems need not be all electronic,
or all mechanical - there are still a number of systems in operation
using mechanical or electro-mechanical control systems.

How you tackle a system will depend mainly on its make-up. If you have
a wholly mechanical control system, for example on a aggregate grading
screen, you would either go for the levers that control the system,
or the linkages from these levers. But if you were dealing with a more
complex system, for example an electrical generator, it would make
more sense to go for the electrical output controls (the switches,
power meters, fuses, etc.) than to just go for the switch that starts
the engine.

7.2 Mechanical controls

Mechanical controls are either very flimsy affairs, such as brake cables,
or they are very tough, such as the levers on large earth movers. Sometimes
brute force, or endless tooling away, is not the answer. Many hefty
control systems, such as steering wheels, actually come of very easily
if you take them apart rather than cut them apart.

As a very simple guide...
   Levers can be bent backwards and forwards till they weaken and break.
Stronger ones can be removed, or if that is not possible, immobilised
using resinous glue on their mounting pivots/hinges;
   Control cables can be cut - you will need side cutters/bolt cutters
(depending on size) for this as the high-tensile steel does not cut
very easily;
   Some levers are held in place with pegs or 'scotch' stops. These
can be removed, or glued/welded in place.

An issue to think of in all this is of course safety. You should never
cut the brakes of a mobile vehicle - it is extremely dangerous to the
operator and other people. Likewise never start cutting a control cable
or control rod unless you are pretty certain that you can finish the
job. Leaving cables and rods half cut is dangerous as they can fly
apart and injure those nearby when the machine is operated. If you
have any doubt about the effect of what you are doing - don't do it!

Examples of electrical control panel components (figure 22)

7.3 Electronic controls

The illustration on the previous page shows a range of electrical control
components - switches, knobs, meters, relays and fuses. How you tackle
a control system is dependent upon how it is controlled, and so it
is important to know how to tackle each element of the control panel.

Switches:
   Slide switches can be superglued very effectively, or you can use
a hammer and centre punch to push the switch slider through the bottom;
   Rocker switches can be glued, although not so well. Most rocker switch
bodies are made from plastic, and are sometimes illuminated. The simplest
way to deal with them is to push/hammer a large insulated electrical
screwdriver through them. Unlike slide switches, rocker switches can
use mains voltages, so it is essential your hands do not touch the
bare metal of your tool. Rocker switches are normally fitted from the
front of the panel, so if you dig a screwdriver/chisel under the edge
and lever, you can pop the switch out of the panel. Then you just clip
the wires using insulated side cutters and chuck the switch away (or
stamp on it);
   Toggle switches can be easily damaged - you either use your side
cutters to cut off the toggle arm (making the switch harder to use),
superglue the pivot/ball at the base of the toggle, or just hammer
the arm of the toggle to break it;
   Push button switches are harder - you either glue them or get an
insulted screwdriver or punch and push the button in. Alternatively
you can get some 'mole' grips, adjust the screw so that the grips tightly
clamp onto the button, and then wrench it out;
   Key switches are most easily glued up;
   Micro switches are easily broken using a hammer, crowbar, or they
can be easily broken/prized away using a screwdriver or chisel. But
beware as they often operate at mains voltages.

Knobs:
   Knobs can either be broken off using a hammer/crowbar, or if you
have a small screwdriver you can just remove them. Some knobs also
just pull off. Those that have no obvious screw fixing, and don't pull
off are either permanently fixed on, or they have a 'screw cap' - this
can be popped off to gain access to the screw fixing.

Fuses:
   Most modern fuseholders are fixed into the panel, with only their
heads sticking out. You then unscrew or pop out the end of the holder
to remove the fuse. Another method is to pop out the fuseholder and
fill the space with resin/potting compound, or to remove the fuse and
just superglue the top back on again;
   Clip fuseholders can have their fuses removed, or more simply, just
bash them on top to bend the terminal spades beyond repair;
   Fuses should never be 'bridged' - that is replaced with bolts or
pieces of thick wire. There are there for a reason - to stop things
drawing too much current, overheating, and potentially starting a fire.
Just remove the fuse, or render it useless - don't replace it with
something that won't fuse when it is needed!;
   Circuit breakers (not illustrated - they are usually marked 'circuit
breaker' or 'earth leakage trip') detect current leaking to earth and
break the circuit. They are essential to protect people from being
electrocuted, and should not be tampered with. Either smash them beyond
repair, remove them, or leave them alone.

Meters and displays:
   Panel meters use small coils to display a current or voltage reading
on a scale. The simplest way to disable them is to jam a screwdriver
through the dial - use an insulated electrical screwdriver for safety!;
   Digital meters (not illustrated) use LED displays, arranged as dots,
bars or numbers, to give a digital reading. Again, these are easily
disabled using a screwdriver, or the spade end of a crowbar;
   Cathode ray tubes (not illustrated - basically things like TV screens,
computer screens, etc.) are large glass bulbs with no air inside. This
means that when they are broken they implode - and then shower the
area and anyone stood nearby with shards of glass. The simplest way
to break them is to throw a brick/heavy solid object at them from ten
yards away, or cover the screen with some think material such as canvas
or carpet, and then hit them with a hammer.

   Relays and PLCs:
   Relays are magnetic switches - an electrical current creates a magnetic
force that switches the metal contacts. Many relays can be removed
from the sockets they are plugged into - this means you can either
remove and dispose of them, or remove them, cover them in superglue,
and quickly put them back. If you don't glue them back remember to
smash the socket housing. If you do glue them back smash the relay
so that it won't work. Alternately you could leave the glued relay
as it is and give someone a surprise at a future date when it needs
replacing;
   Programmable logic controllers (PLCs - not illustrated) are becoming
increasing popular means of controlling machinery - they were discussed
at the end of Volume I. The 'hardwired' kind are often mass produced,
and so smashing them doesn't achieve much. But if you see a programmable
version - which normally has a small keyboard and LED display, smash
the hell out of it with a hammer or crowbar because they are very expensive
to replace.

At the bottom of the electrical controls illustration is a small control
panel. This is a good example of what you might see - it has controls
(knobs/switches) and instruments (panel meters/LEDs) - which need to
be 'improved'. With any control box there are five options...
   Glue it - just put glue over the switches - quick and easy, and it
doesn't make any noise;
   Disable it - this means pushing screwdrivers through the instruments,
and damaging the switches. This makes more noise, but is equally as
quick;
   Dismantle it - this means taking switches and meters apart, and if
possible, removing the front panel and tackling the electrical components
behind the front panel;
   Smash it - the loudest but most devastating option. The control box
in the illustration is made of steel, making it very tough. In these
situations you really need to remove the screws holding the front panel
on to have a go at what's behind. If the control box is plastic then
a crowbar is the simplest option - either use the round end as a hammer
to break you way in, or the spade ends to stab/lever the box apart.
You can do a lot of damage very quickly - but it is very noisy;
   Acid - where you are fairly sure that there is a lot of complicated
circuitry behind the front panel, you can make a small hole and pour
acid inside. But be very careful not to spill it everywhere - and leave
a note to tell the operators that there is acid inside. The only thing
to beware is that if electricity is still flowing through the box then
it may catch fire, or potentially explode.

The purpose of the control panel is also important. With large earth
movers it is sometimes easier to go for the controls than for the extremely
well-engineered workings of the engine. You really have to apply the
analysis explained at the beginning - the source, control and use of
energy. Damaging the energy control systems is likely to immobilise
the machinery, but is repairable. Damaging the engine or power source
is often a much more serious matter to put right. You really have to
make up you mind, as part of your scoping exercise (see Volume I) as
to what you want to achieve from your work.

7.4 Computer systems

Computer systems were dealt with in general in Volume I, and there
is little to add.

In general you should always try to take on the main computer unit
- damaging computer screens or keyboards has little effect as they
are easily and cheaply replaced. But if you damage the main unit, this
gives a bigger " per hammer blow cost" - some of the computer chips
cost 300 to 800, and a replacement hard disk can cost three times
the cost of a keyboard.

A very annoying tactic is to get a floppy disk, cover it in glue, and
stick it into the disk drive. This not only means that the computer
is effectively disabled in a simple, quick and quiet manner, but it
is difficult to get the data stored on the hard disk out of the system
without paying a lot of money to a computer engineer to remove the
hard disk and read the data off it, or replace the disk drive.

With larger computers, where the circuit boards inside are easily accessible,
the simplest option of to just open the cabinets, pull out the boards
and snap them in two - this can be difficult by hand but if you prop
them on a block or against the wall and stamp in the middle this is
easily achieved.

7.5 Basic sabotage of instrumentation and switchgear

As noted above, you have to make a judgement before you start about
what you want to achieve. Going for the control systems can be quick,
simple, and more importantly quieter, but you may not have the permanent
effect that damaging the sources or sinks of energy might have. The
exception to this general rule is the more complicated systems controlled
by PLCs - damaging the PLC effective renders the whole unit useless
until it can be replaced, normally at great expense.

With mechanical systems, you have a option to cut or dismantle. Dismantling
is quieter, but takes longer. Also, by cutting or smashing the controls
you often creates "collateral damage" which take more time and money
to put right than dismantling would.

With electrical systems you need to make sure that the damage you are
doing will have some effect. Quite often the electrical control boxes
are mass produced, and they can just bring another out and plug it
in. In these cases it might be better to spend your time on other parts
of the system.

I generally apply the following hierarchy of options when tackling
control systems...
   Go for the parts the operator actually must use as part of the basic
function of the system. For example, removing the steering wheel of
a car, and gluing the ignition, will be more effective than smashing
the speedometer;
   If there are essential display, such as temperature, speed, or pressure,
go for them next;
   Next go for the quick and easy controls - glue the switches, screwdriver
the displays, etc.
   If the control box is easily opened - that is if it is made of plastic
or the screws are located in easy reach, opening and proceed to work
inside. If not, move on to another part of the system;
   If time permits, think of some more creative sabotage - remove and
glue up the relays, or bend the levers into funny shapes;
   If time is critical, or you need to be as quiet as possible, often
25 grams of superglue strategically squeezed can be as effective as
smashing the controls. In effect you defer the smashing and dismantling
to those who must repair your handiwork;
   Above all, do not do anything that endangers the operator or the
public - don't leave live wires dangling, don't bridge fuses or only
partially damage circuit breakers, and don't make unsafe any control
system that is essential for safety - for example fire extinguishers,
brakes, or safety valves.

8. VEHICLES

8.1 Cars, lorries and construction plant

Tackling cars, lorries and mobile construction vehicles presents its
own problems, which set them as a class apart from other hits. In general
the important parts of the system are concealed behind rigid steel
enclosures making them difficult to access. The control systems are
normally inside a cab, locked behind doors and tough glass. Finally,
and most importantly, the intrinsic value of these machines means that
they are more likely to be alarmed so that sabotage becomes difficult
or impossible.

Cars and vans are probably the most difficult to damage effectively
- although it is often a simple matter to immobilise them in some way.
These days not only does the vehicle have motion and vibration detectors,
but even the bonnet and petrol cap are lock and alarmed.

Taking on vehicles therefore requires a lot of thought - in at the
beginning of any planning for the hit you may even decide to exclude
cars and vans.

Simplified car construction (figure 0)

Heavy goods vehicles (HGVs) are a different matter. In many cases although
the cab itself may be alarmed, the way the vehicle is built makes vulnerable
parts easier to get hold of. In particular the fuel and electrical
systems, and the engine/power train, can be easily reached by clambering
underneath. Unlike cars, where cutting the brakes means the car can't
stop, with many HGV the airbrake systems means that if the air isn't
there you can get the brakes off - this makes them an obvious target.

Basic layout of heavy goods vehicles (figures 23/24)

Earth movers, JCBs and dumpers are more difficult. This is not only
because they are more enclosed than HGVs, but the components are generally
made to withstand greater damage. Unless you can get the body panels
off you only options are to go for the accessible parts of the hydraulic
system, the fuel tank filler pipe, the cab (if it is not alarmed) and
the tyres/tracks.

8.2 General sabotage options

When first approaching a vehicle you need to consider three things...
   Is it likely to be alarmed?;
   Are there enough accessible parts to effectively achieve the objective
of the hit?;
   Would my time be better spent on something nearby?.

In general you should assume that any locked vehicle is alarmed - but
if you have planned the hit to allow for activating the alarm without
attracting attention then that's OK. HGVs present the most fruitful
target when alarmed, but cars do not because the vibration sensors
will detect and sharp banging. The simplest option with cars is to
drill the tyres - this makes very little vibration, and they go down
fairly slowly so that the rim of the wheel doesn't land with a jolt.

Example of typical earth mover (figures 25/26)

The issue of accessible parts is also important. If you are able to
sugar the fuel, irrespective of anything else, you can consider the
job done. But to be sure you really need to do some work on other parts
of the vehicle. The hydraulics is the obvious choice on earth movers,
and the electrical/air systems are the obvious choice on HGVs. With
cars, if you are very gentle, you may be able to get underneath and
crush the fuel line closed, or reach up from underneath into the engine
cavity and cut some wires.

Finally, if you have a choice between a car, and an HGV next to it,
it is obvious which you do first - the HGV has more accessible parts.
Likewise if you had a pound full of cars which were covered in alarms,
but the security gate had an number of strong locks on it, you would
glue up the locks on the security gate.

Whatever tactic you apply, you should still use the energy flow analysis
of the system to target the parts of the vehicle it would be most effective
to sabotage.

8.3 Engine and fuel systems

The fuel tank on most cars is located at the rear, underneath the boot.
A metal pipe then runs from the tank, underneath the chassis to the
fuel pump mounted on the engine block. Draining or cutting this system
will deprive the engine of fuel. If you wished to take the drastic
action of setting fire to the car, you could also cut/drill this system
to provide the fuel to start the fire. If you ever need to syphon fuel
from a vehicle, cutting the fuel pipe or making a hole in the tank
is also quicker and safer than trying to chisel off a locked petrol
cap. But beware - draining fuel tanks can cause a lot of pollution,
unless you catch the fuel in a can or tray.

These same rules apply to HGVs - the only thing is that diesel is less
volatile, and consequently harder to set fire to. The easiest way is
to pile some paper and wood in a heap, put diesel on the paper, and
then set fire to the 'dry' pieces of paper.

Engines are difficult to get at because they are locked under bonnets,
or in the case of the HGV, you often have to hinge open the whole cab.
The options are therefore limited. You could drain the oil by taking
out the sump plug, but this will show up when the engine is started,
and draining the oil, especially from HGVs, can cause a lot of pollution.

If you can get the bonnet open, you should first go for the spark plugs,
or on diesel engines, the injectors (see diagrams earlier). If you
want to make a really good job, find the oil filler cap, or the dip
stick hole, and try getting some abrasive material into the engine
(see the 'abrasives' section of volume I). Grinding/polishing powder
is best (because its hard) but sand will do as a substitute.

8.4 Brakes and hydraulic systems

You should never cut fluid brake systems on cars or vans. This is because
all power to the brakes will be lost. Air brake systems on HGVs can
be cut - but carefully so that you don't injure yourself - because
the brakes are held off by air pressure, and cutting the pipes means
the brakes won't come off.

Hydraulic systems are a problem, partly because of the dangers of the
equipment moving/collapsing. There is also the matter of pollution
arising from the leaking hydraulic fluid.

Choosing which pipes to cut is a matter of what you tooling capability
is. If you have good bolt cutters then hoses up to 1" diameter, and
pipes up to 0.5" should present little problem. Where bigger pipes
are involved, you should consider drilling them with a small (2mm)
drill bit. If the parts are accessible, it is more effective to go
for the manifolds and valves - they are more expensive and take longer
to replace. To rally damage the hydraulic rams you need a power drill
and a specially hardened drill bit suitable for cutting hardened steel.

8.5 Electrical systems

If the vehicle is switched off, then apart from the leads coming from
the battery to the solenoid, and the lighting system, the wires should
have no power running through them. Even so, apart from the battery
leads, cutting other cables will have little effect because any short
circuit will involve low voltages, and the fuses should blow.

It can be difficult to identify specific parts of the electrical system,
except for the simple things like the distributor cap/plug leads, and
battery leads. In general it is often easier to just cut everything
quickly. Also, rather then cutting a cable once, try to cut one or
two inch sections from the cable - this means they have to be replaced
rather then just joined back together.

9. SPECIALIST HITS

How to describe the sabotage of other 'non-standard' systems is more
difficult. You should be able to figure out what to do by using the
energy flow analysis of the system, and copying some of the ideas applied
to the standard systems described in the sections above.

In practice you may end up treating a complex machine - for example
a roadstone coating plant, as a collection of discrete systems rather
then as one entity.

Construction hoists (figure 27)

9.1 Construction equipment

Most construction equipment can be tackled with the information already
given in this Volume, and Volume I. But on construction sites you often
find hybrid machines - for example the hoist illustrated on the following
page.

A key consideration of hitting something like a construction site is
not only to consider the machines as systems - with energy and material
flows - but also you should look at the whole site as a functioning
entity. Material stockpiles are needed to make the whole thing function.
Likewise, machines such as cement mixers can be as important as earth
movers.

Tower cranes (figure 28)

There are a number of things you can do on construction sites...
   In the initial stages, you should consider moving the survey stakes.
Only move them a foot or so, and try to make the new 'positions' look
convincingly real. That way, if construction goes ahead to you new
'plan', prefabricated elements of the development won't fit. If there
is not a lot of time just rip up all the survey marks.
   Sand stockpiles are a good target. You could dig sugar or salt (salt
is better) into the sand. This will make the cement/concrete weak.
But for safety's sake, you should let the site operator know this after
they have used the material. In any case, you might like to tell them
even if you didn't do it.
   On many sites, pumps often operate around the clock to keep deep
excavations dry. You could sabotage the pumps. But there is a more
effective option where there is a large body of water nearby - either
a watercourse or a settling pond. Take the outlet pipe from the pump
and stick it in the hole, and the inlet from the hole and stick it
in the water. It can be sometimes quicker and easier to just swap the
pipes around on the pump. Either way you pump the hole full of water.
   Scaffolding is a good target. Use a rope winch or block and tackle
(see Volume I) to pull it over - it you are lucky you might take some
of the work with you.
   A good target is the site office. You can either glue up the locks,
go inside and improve the decor, or try to demolish/turn the office
block over.
   Never forget of course the wide range of machinery available to work
on. This may be kept in a secure compound, and if so, you should beware
of alarm/security systems.
   Tower crane are a risky target - if you're discovered there's nowhere
to run. If something goes wrong then you are either stuck, dead, or
badly injured. Although you could disable the controls in the cab,
or try and cut the power lines, you should never attempt to topple
the crane unless you are absolutely sure you can do it, and it will
land where it will not cause harm to anyone.
   Whatever you do, do not leave things in a state where they will be
a danger to the workers on the site, or to the occupants of the building
when/if it is completed.

9.2 Quarry equipment

Quarrying is probably one of the most damaging landuses in lowland
meadows, and in hilly/mountainous areas. It is not only because of
the effect of quarrying on habitats, but also the effect on water tables,
and the land uses that follow such as waste disposal or watersports.

There are four key targets in the quarry works...
   The earth moving/excavation equipment.
   The pumps that keep the quarry dry - if you are certain they the
site will fill with water quickly, or you can swap the pipes on the
pumps, then you can drown all the equipment in one go.
   The sorting/grading and crushing equipment - essential for the processing
of stone, and potentially easily damaged.
   The site office and weighbridge. Doing the site office causes annoyance.
If you can damage the controls for the weighbridge then you really
make operating difficult.

The only thing to beware of with quarries is making sure that you don't
get trapped. Especially in deep quarries, if your exit is blocked,
or if you fall into a pit with no escape, you only option is to wait
for the owners to find you.

9.3 Farm machinery

There are a wide variety of farms. Some have only arable planting/harvesting
equipment. Some concentrate on dairy products. Some intensively farm
just one type of animal.

In general, it is the intensive farms which present the greatest offence
to the environment. Not only is there the issue of animal welfare,
but intensive farms can also present a serious pollution hazard to
the soil, to nearby watercourses, and often create local noise and
smell nuisances.

When you take action against a farm, you must consider, first and foremost,
what you attitude to the animals is. You actions may have implications
for the welfare of animals - it may even cause their deaths. You must
decide if you wish to uphold their right to life, or whether you believe
that a short period of discomfort will effectively 'end' their misery.

Hoppers and materials storage (figure 29)

There are a number of targets which you should consider sabotaging...
   Farm machinery is often easy to sabotage because it is less enclosed.
   With things like livestock transport wagons, you have to decide whether
you want to destroy or disable them - disabling is easy, but if you
wish a permanent solution more drastic action like arson may be necessary.
Causing fires on farms can be especially problematic because of the
presence of large quantities of flammable materials such as straw,
fuel or wooden buildings. Don't torch anything unless you are sure
that the fire can be contained!
   Materials hoppers are a good target (see illustration on the previous
page) - these are often essential for the storage of grain, or of food
for intensive animal units. Puncturing the tubes coming from the hopper
leaks pressure from the system and prevents material flow. Likewise,
jamming/gluing access covers and valves prevents their use.

   On many farms and barns the electrical systems are easily sabotaged.
In many cases the electrical controls resemble those in your own home
(see illustration on following page). Cutting the 'meter leads' can
be dangerous. You should attempt to remove the mains fuse, or isolate
the fusebox, and then clip all the leads leading out of the fusebox.
If you wear rubber gloves, you could also take a sledgehammer to the
fuse box and meter.
   Many farms have pesticide/chemical stores - these can be glued up.
Beware of any fertiliser bag that has a yellow diamond or the words
'oxidising agent' on it. If you set fire to this stuff it is difficult
to stop, it burn intensely hot, and will create a serious pollution
incident if any substantial quantity catches fire.

A word of caution though. Many farms have 'live-in' staff, and so security
can be a problem. Another recent innovation are 'trip wires' and 'pressure
pads' - these are linked to flares or squibs and are meant to announce
the presence of intruders. Although not all farms have them, they are
becoming increasingly popular to prevent uninvited guests, thieves,
or animal rights protesters. They are very difficult to spot in the
dark, and if you have just spent twenty minutes quietly stalking up
to a barn and you set a thunderflash off it can scare the hit out of
you.
   Mains electrical systems (figure 30)

9.4 Pipelines and transmission lines

Pipelines and electricity transmission lines are extremely easy targets
to take on, but can be immensely dangerous. If you are considering
such things as high-pressure gas pipelines, or any electric cable carrying
more than 415 volts, my tip to you is to forget it!! There are easier
ways to die. But there are some targets you can consider...

Mains voltage power lines (that is, less than 500 volts) are difficult
to cut - even with the standard household 240 volts you could conceivable
kill yourself. In these situations you should consider 'burning' through
the cable - the simplest way to do this is to place a blow lamp on
the cable or pipe, and then retire to a safe distance very quickly.
You might risk 'chopping' them with an axe, but if you cause a serious
short the spatter of molten metal could cause burns.

Low voltage power lines (less than 50 volts) can be easily cut with
cutters, provided that they have insulated handles, or you wear thick
rubber gloves. Again, beware things like high current induction motors
or welding equipment - these carry large amounts of current which could
arc and burn you.

Pumps are an easy target. You can either go for the motor driving the
pump, or you can go for the pipeline. There are two types of pump...
   Diaphragm pumps operate using an oscillating membrane and two one
way valves. They can often be identified by the regular pulsing and
gushing of water along the pipes. If you can introduce some long hard
objects, such as pieces of stick or wood, these can block the valves
of the pump. Otherwise you should go for the engine/motor driving the
pump.
   Rotary pumps have a disk rotating at high speeds (the 'impeller')
which continuously sucks/pushes water - so you don't get the same pulsing.
The lack of vales makes them difficult to sabotage, so you should go
for the engine/motor driving the pump.

With both types of pump, they operate by generating a 'low' pressure
on the sucking side, and creating a 'high' pressure on the blowing
site. If you puncture the pipes on the low pressure side you let air
in and the pipeline loses suction. Likewise if you puncture the high
pressure side the pipeline leaks.

Diaphragm and rotary pumps (figures 31/32)

Coaxial cables (figure 33)

Coaxial cables carry radio waves, and are used on transmitter masts,
computer networks, and some radio intercom systems. They can be easily
cut with side cutters, or better still stapled with a staple gun (this
shorts the cable and potentially could wreck the transmitter). Beware
microwave transmitters - sometime these use (waveguides) just behind
the dish which can be dangerous to your health if cut.

It is possible to cut high pressure pipes or high voltage cables using
some sort of chemical incendiary mixture, but this is still very risky.
You also have the problem that the chemical incendiaries could burn
away without breaking the pipe/cable, but causing serious damage which
may endanger someone. Also the chemical incendiary could start a fire
in the area, ignite the contents of the pipeline, or if the pipeline
holds high pressure the explosive breach could throw burning incendiary
incendiary over a large area and start fires.

9.5 Commercial premises

Commercial premises present a challenge to the saboteur - but many
rewards. As security technology increase, even the most innocent site
office can have as much anti-intruder protection as you local bank.
This is because what is inside offices - computers, fax machines, and
increasingly data - is becoming more valuable and needs protecting.

Getting past security systems cannot be taught here - there is not
enough room, and you must learn some highly technical electronic and
computer skills. Sometimes it may be worth organising your hit to take
place within 30 seconds to one minute, and then just smashing your
way in triggering every security device on the premises. If you can
guarantee that security personnel will not arrive for five or six minutes,
then you can make a getaway.

There are also a number of targets you must consider. As noted at the
beginning of this section, you can treat something 'new' as a set of
systems, using the analysis described earlier in this volume. But commercial
premises present some very specific pieces of equipment which you might
like to know more about.

Forklifts (figure 34)

In many commercial/industrial premises, you will find some sort of
forklift truck for loading/unloading vehicles, or working within stores/high
bay warehouses. Forklifts are either electrically powered using a battery
pack, or they run on a gas engine, powered by a bottle of compressed
gas mounted on the back of the machine.

The illustration on the following page shows a typical forklift. The
control panel is simple, and easily accessible. But getting at the
electric motors and gearing mechanisms can be difficult. Although many
forklifts use cable or chains for lifting, some use hydraulic system
- in these cases the usual 'hydraulic' systems rules apply.

Beware electric fork lifts - if you short the battery pack you might
have a small explosion because of the power the pack can generate.
On most battery fork lifts the pack has a connector which pulls out
of a socket and plugs into a battery charger. You have the choice of
either turning the charger off, disconnecting the battery and sabbing
the charger box, or disconnecting the pack from the socket it plugs
into on the truck, and smashing this socket. Do not smash the plug
connected to the battery pack because this could cause a short.

Refrigeration systems (figure 35)

Another common thing to find in commercial premises is refrigeration
systems - used as either actual cold stores/fridges, or used as cooling
systems/air conditioning units. If you damage the refrigeration system
it can be a very expensive job not only replacing the system, but also
the goods which may go off when they warm up.

The illustration on the previous page shows a traditional 'domestic'
style fridge, but commercial units operate in roughly the same way
- they just have the parts arranged differently.

You must take care when taking on these systems because they contain
flammable gases such as butane, highly irritating gases such as ammonia,
or asphyxiating gases such as halon (CFCs). If you cut the pipes and
release these gases, you will have to evacuate immediately. In practice
it is safer to take on the electrical control systems and put them
permanently out of action.

Modern refrigeration systems use electric motors which drive specially
designed pump or screw compressors. By disabling the motor, or is power
source, you disable the cooling system. The problem comes where the
motor and pump form one sealed unit - in these instances you can only
disable the power source.

Another thing to consider, especially where machinery is involved,
is the effect that damaging the gearing and bearing systems will have.
The illustrations on the following pages show different types of gear
and bearing that you may see on industrial machinery.

Gearing and bearing systems (figures 36/37)

Gears are most easily damaged by breaking or denting the 'teeth' on
the cogs that make up the gear. Cast gears can be broken with a lump
hammer. Prising open smaller gear sets with a crowbar will have an
equally deleterious effect. Some gear systems are oil lubricated, or
contained within some sort of sump - in these cases just put sand in
the sump to act as an abrasive. 'Worm' gears are particularly susceptible
to having things jammed in them - if you use some mild steel roads
(for example short nails) these work their way into the gears causing
a jam.

Bearings are harder to damage, mainly because they are encased inside
the machine. But there they are visible you can damage them using a
hammer and cold chisel/centre punch, or by jamming steel nails into
the bearing. If a bearing is lubricated with grease, try mixing 2 parts
(by volume) of grinding/polishing powder to 3 parts lubricating grease,
and then apply this to the bearing. If this goes unnoticed the bearings
will slowly wear and begin to rattle in their races.

9.6 High security compounds

Entering high security compounds - such as those surrounding military
bases, nuclear establishments or sensitive commercial premises - is
a bit like putting you head in a lions mouth. You have to hope that
is doesn't bite.

As noted with commercial premises, you could just rush the place head
on, do your work within a minute, and then get away quickly. Sometimes
that may be your only option, but there are alternatives.

A tactic within the anti-nuclear movement was to treat the high security
compound itself as the target. Thus you regularly set alarms off, cut
holes in fences, or throw stones at security cameras. If this gets
a regular occurrence, to the point where the staff don't immediately
react, this may provide a 'time window' where you can actually get
in and do some real work.

9.7 Marine targets

Marine target fall into roughly two types - things that float, and
things that are fixed to the ground but have water around them. Floating
things can be sunk - but this presents risks of pollution and danger
to people on the floating object. Things that are fixed to the bottom
are generally on interest because of what is on them.

Never sink anything while people are aboard it. If you want to sink
something what you have to consider is how long the thing will take
to sink - this is important as it means that you can guarantee that
the object will sink within a certain amount of time. First you estimate
the internal volume the object - call this V, and measure it in cubic
metres. If we assume that you are going to drill the hull of the object,
then find the diameter of you drill bit - call this D and measure it
in millimetres. Finally, work out how far below the waterline you are
going to drill the hole(s) - call this H and measure it in metres.
Finally, decide how many minutes you want the object to sink in, and
call this M. The number of hole you will have to drill to sink the
object in the required time is then calculated using the formula...
T = V / ( 0.009426 * D2 * H * M )

To simplify matters, the table on the following page gives the time
for an object to sink (right axis, in minutes) for a given volume (bottom
axis) and a drill size (top line is 5mm, next 10mm, 20mm, 30mm, bottom
line 50mm). These calculations assume that 10 holes are drilled. For
every extra 10 holes drilled, halve the time.

Taking on fixed targets depends a lot on their nature. Docks and quays
present the obvious advantage that things can be easily disposed of
- into the water. Also, where you have a secure compound, access from
the water can get around many problems such as fences and guard. But
beware - some sites, such as military installations, have nets and
alarms to stop swimmers/divers, and on occasions the security troops
have used special stun grenades to disable swimmers attempting to access
protected docksides.

Sink times (table 0)

In terms of everyday hits, waterborne access can add a new dimension
to the planning of hits. For example, if you ever get cornered and
there is a river next to the site, you can jump in, drop you tools
to the bottom, and then float away downstream. Likewise there are many
sites - for example chemicals installations, that are built on waterways,
and have minimal security along their water side because the water
is assumed to be a barrier in itself.

One obvious safety point in relation to waterborne hits - it does help
if you can swim. Likewise, if you are taking a boat out on the open
water, make sure that you are skilled to handle it.

10. ADVANCED TECHNIQUES

10.1 Introduction

Depending upon the character of the target, it is a fairly straightforward
matter to plan a schedule of work to effectively disable or destroy
a site or facility. So far much of the detail in volumes I and II has
considered using tools to disable or dismantle equipment. The use of
other more extreme, complex or time consuming tactics has not been
considered.

10.2 Concrete

(figure 38)

Concrete can be put to very effective use. The only problem is that
it is difficult to transport, is a mess to mix and apply, and it takes
time to dry.

The cement used for brick laying is a mixture of sand and cement powder.
Concrete has small pebbles (gravel or 'aggregate') added to increase
its strength. The strength of the mixture depends upon the amount of
cement powder mixed into the sand or sand/gravel mix...
   For general cement mix 4 parts sand to 1 part cement;
   For concrete mix 2 parts sand, to 1 part gravel, to 1 part cement.

These gives you a very basic mixture. You could increase the amount
of cement powder to increase the strength, but this will progressively
'harden' the mixture so making it more brittle.

You can also buy special additives for cement which will increase the
speed at which it sets - these are usually based around PVA and other
similar adhesives. You could mix in a small pack of wallpaper paste
to get a similar effect.

With both concrete and cement, if you want to stop it being split apart,
you need to add some sort of reinforcement. Where space is limited,
you could try using wire mesh, or just random coils of thick wire.
If you are filling a space which you are sure there is only one way
it could be split with a chisel or drill, you can bury steel plates
or sections of angle iron in the cement/concrete.

You can also inject cement mix into things. If you want to do this
it is better to mix 1 part cement powder with 1 parts 'soft' sand,
and add a small amount of wallpaper paste/PVA. You then need to use
something like an icing piper to inject the mixture into the space.
Although you can carry this mixture mixed dry, after adding water and
mixing you will have to work fast as it begins to set quickly.

Examples of where you can use concrete are...
   You can block up pipes using bungs (see Volume I) and then fill the
access hole with cement to prevent them being removed.
   You can create bollards or other obstructions by filling a large
steel drum with concrete. This tactic is even more effective if you
dig a hole, concrete a thick iron bar into the ground, and thread the
drum over the bar before filling it with concrete - this makes it more
difficult to push out the way.
   You can 'prefabricate' blocks or slabs of concrete to precisely fit
into holes or pipes using wooden or metal moulds.
   Pouring wet concrete into air intakes, exhausts, large electric motors,
gearboxes or any other mechanical systems which are enclosed, assuming
that there is the time for the concrete to dry, will effectively block
up the system, and it is cheaper than using epoxy adhesives or potting
compound.

The main thing to remember is that concrete is only effective where
it can dry properly. If there is no source of heat to drive off the
water, it will set very slowly. The speed at which the concrete sets
is proportional to the thickness of the concrete. Concrete will form
a hard skin within two or three hours of being laid, but to properly
set it takes much longer. Assume that, on an average day, for each
inch thickness of the concrete, it will take four hours to dry. Adding
PVA and other such compounds helps the hardening process, but if you
expect the concrete to take a battering when it is discovered you will
need to allow the full four hours/inch thickness for it to dry.

An alternative to using a cement based concrete is to buy some 'bonding'
or 'undercoat' plaster. Unlike cement, this has a much more powerful
crystallisation reaction so that it sets faster. The main advantage
of plaster is where you are filling watertight enclosed spaces, as
the crystallisation reaction will still take place, and the heat produced
by this reaction will help drive off the water. The only problem is
that plaster is very soft, and so can be easily removed. This can be
partly solved by using reinforcing wire and metal plates.

10.3 Soldering/braising and welding

Often with metal objects it can be useful to have a more effective
method of gumming things up than superglue.

If you have two pieces of metal sheet, these can be firmly fixed together
using rivets. You drill a hole, insert the rivet and then use a rivet
crimp to seal it up. The problem with rivets is that they are easily
drilled out again - and you can only use then on thin metal sheets.

Soldering methods (figure 39)

Soldering tools (figure 40)

With sold metal objects things get a little more difficult. If the
objects are small, or they are thin, then soldering or braising is
possible. First you clean the surfaces until they are shiny and free
from grease. Then you bring the surfaces together and fuse them by
melting a metal over them. 'Soft' soldering is used for small objects,
and basically involves using a soldering iron to heat the parts, and
then applying solder.

Where the metal parts are more substantial you may have to use 'hard
solder'. You apply the flux to the parts. Then heat using a large iron
or blow torch. When the parts are hot and the flux molten you apply
the solder.

Soldering can be used to fuse metal parts up to 1cm thick, but beyond
this it is extremely difficult to get the metal hot enough to take
the solder. Also, solder joints are not incredibly strong as the solder
does not have the same strength at the metal. The alternative is to
use a gas or electric arc welder. This uses very high temperatures
to melt and fuse the iron/steel. This joint, if properly made, has
a strength near to that of the metal itself.

Arc welding equipment is difficult to use for sabotage work. It is
very heavy, because of the heavy copper coils inside, and there is
the problem of providing a power supply. If these problems can be overcome,
arc welders are fairly simple to use after a little practice. Gas welding
equipment is easier to carry, and does not require a power supply,
but it takes a little more skill and practice to use. Oxygen-propane
systems are relatively simple to use to fuse metal. Oxygen-acetylene
systems operate at higher temperatures making work quicker, and the
higher temperature also enable you to cut metal more simply. Many local
technical colleges run evening classes on welding and metal work. I
would suggest that you attend one of these, or get a friend who knows
to teach you welding, before you attempt to use welding equipment.

The other option for welding/cutting metal is to use some sort of 'thermite'
compound, but this is difficult to obtain, and risky to use. There
are 'home-brew' alternatives using mixtures of solid fuel and oxidising
agents (see the following section).

10.4 Combustion

Combustion is the process whereby materials oxidise. I have chosen
to entitle this section "combustion" as not all combustion is a simple
matter of setting fire to things. Combustible materials require a good
supply of air/oxygen to burn, and artificially enhancing this improves
the efficiency of combustion.

There has been much attention given to the use of explosive devices
by environmentalists and animal rights campaigners. Although crude
explosive devices can be made, we would not advocate the use of these
devices because of the risk of injury and death to saboteurs and members
of the public. In practice these devices are just too unreliable and
unpredictable to be safely used.

Fire-setting is an old method of destruction. But the use of fire to
damage or destroy a target must be only considered as an extreme last
resort. Fire can cause serious pollution if you burn plastics or ignite
chemicals. Likewise fire can seriously injure people nearby, or those
who try to extinguish it. Before you consider using fire you should
ensure that there is no possibility of persons or the environment being
harmed.

Where possible you should ensure that the fire cannot spread or cause
damage to nearby structures. For example, when burning vehicles or
construction equipment you should make sure that the fire will not
spread to nearby buildings or fuel storage tanks. A particular problem
is the risk of setting fire to grassland or hedges in dry weather.
You should never set fire to any vehicle or installation containing
large quantities of fuel or chemicals.

The traditional image of the incendiary device is the petrol bomb or
'Molotov cocktail'. This is a bottle full of flammable liquid. Around
the lid is tied a rag damped with the same flammable liquid. This is
then lit and the bottle thrown. The bottle breaks on impact, and the
rag ignites the fuel. Sometime the rag is stuck in the top of the bottle,
but this poses the risk of the rag falling out, or the liquid spilling
out the bottle and igniting as you throw the bottle. Leaving the lid
on is safer. This also means that you can carry the bottle in a bag,
open it to wet the rag when you are ready, and reseal the bottle before
ignition.

The type of liquids you could use would be methylated spirits, petrol,
or if you have access acetone. Diesel and paraffin are not very good
because they are difficult to ignite, although you could mix a small
quantity with the more volatile liquids to increase the energy output.

An adaption of the Molotov cocktail can be used to allow more control
over the placing of the device. The plastic bottle is filled with flammable
liquid. Do not leave petrol in a plastic bottle for more than a day
because it eats through the plastic. Never use acetone or other solvents
because they each through the plastic bottle in a matter of minutes.

Get the tray (not the sleeve) half of a small match box. Next get a
large box of of matches and scrape off the match heads. Mix the powdered
match heads with a small amount of cotton wool. This mixture is then
pressed into the box half. Then you make a fuse. This is done by coating
a long length of string or thick cotton in polystyrene glue, and then
pulling it through a pile of ground match heads to coat it in the powder.
Hang this up until it is dry, and then fix the end inside the match
box under the cotton wool. Tape the box tray and its contents to the
side of the plastic bottle. When you reach the target place the bottle,
run out the fuse, light it and "retire".

Liquid incendiary devices (figure 41) and Chemical incendiary devices
(figure 42)

 

The main problem with liquid incendiaries is that they spill and splash,
making then very unspecific in their application. This can be improved
upon by using materials which burn very hot, and do so without flaring
uncontrollably. To do this it is necessary to use chemicals.

The 'powder' that is used for this is a mixture of three parts ammonium
nitrate fertiliser, one part icing sugar, and one part ground up charcoal.
The fertiliser can be bought in small quantities from garden centres,
or many farms have tonnes of it sitting around at the end of the Winter/start
of Spring. It comes as small pellets, and these can be ground up to
make the powder burn faster, but it is no absolutely necessary.

The simplest way to make an incendiary is to fill a small polythene
bag with powder, and pack it into the tray of a large match box, leaving
about half an inch space at one end. Into this space you pack another
small bag containing ground up match heads. You then fit the fuse into
this small bag, and then close up the box leaving a small notch (just
cut a small 'V' with scissors) for the fuse to come out. This device
will burn ferociously in excess of 1000oC and burn/scorch anything
within a few inches of it. The device cannot explode because the gases
are not contained, and the presence of 'filler' in the fertiliser limits
the speed of combustion. When installed at the target, light the fuse
and retire.

An adaption of this device is a 'flare'. If you get a steel tube, or
a thick card roll centre of a fax roll, you direct the hot gases coming
out of the device. Plug one end of the roll with clay or Plasticine.
Then fill the tube with powder leaving about 1 inch of space at the
top (it is a good idea to lightly pack the powder with a stick). Then
get the fuse and insert into the powder. Next fill almost to the top
with ground match heads. Top off the tube with a small amount of clay/Plasticine
,
or put tape over the end - but make sure that you leave a small opening
around the fuse. You then place the device with the fuse end pointing
at the thing you are targeting, about a quarter inch away. You will
need to weight or tape down the device to stop it taking off like a
rocket. As before, you just light the fuse and retire.

With all of the match head fuse devices, there is a general problem
that the fuse burns very quickly. Perhaps a few inches a second. This
means you may have to have a very long fuse, perhaps ten or twenty
feet long, to get even a minimal time delay. There are two alternatives:
you either have to slow down the rate of burn without compromising
the reliability of the fuse, or you have to have another form of initiation.

One way to delay the fuse is to use something else which burns slowly.
The simplest, most easily available material for this is an incense
stick ('joss-stick'). As described above for the fused liquid incendiary,
mix some ground match heads into some cotton wool (try to use one part
match heads to two parts cotton wool by volume). You then insert three
or four (for reliability) incense sticks into the cotton wool so that
they burn well down into the cotton wool. You then get the fuse from
the liquid/chemical incendiary and wrap it a few times around the whole
bundle. Don't tilt the sticks too much or they will burn to quickly.
You should also burn two or three sticks from the same batch to check
how long they burn for. Having set this all up at the target site you
light all the sticks, and retire at a more sedate pace.

Delay fuses and electric fuses (figures 43 & 44)

          

The other option is to electrically initiate the incendiary. This is
difficult, and is not entirely reliable. To make an electrical fuse,
to get a small bulb - such as those used in car headlights and such
like. First, you must solder a wire to the metal pip at the base of
the bulb, and then you wrap another wire around the body of the bulb,
twist it to keep the coil of wire tight, and then solder the connection
to keep it firm. Then, by rubbing the top of the glass bulb on emery
or sand paper, you bore a 5 - 10mm hole in the bulb. Through this hole
you then completely fill the bulb with very finely ground match heads.
Then put tape over the top to stop the contents falling out.

You can either connect 'two core' bell wire directly to the bulb, or
you could manufacture a number of bulbs using short lengths of single
cored insulated wire, and then connect them to a long length of twin
cored wire when you use them. Another thing, to ensure reliability,
is to connect two or three bulbs in parallel (that is, you connect
all the pip wires to one wire, and all the body wires to the other.
This gives a better chance of ignition if one or two of the bulbs fail
to ignite. If you use a 12 volt bulb, you should connect the bulb to
a 9 volt battery to set it off - this is because the bulb will burn
out quickly using a 12 volt battery, but using 9 volts will allow it
to smoulder longer to set off the matches.

You have a number of options for setting the device off. You could
run out a long length of wire, connect the fuse at one end, and just
touch the wires to each terminal of a battery at the other (this is
called a 'command wire'). If you use more than 25 metres of wire with
a 12 volt bulb, you should increase the battery voltage to 12 volts
(use a 12 volt battery, or connect the positive terminal of one 6 volt
battery to the negative terminal of another 6 volt battery, and then
touch the fuse wires on the two free terminals). When you get to 50
metres, use 18 volts (two 9 volt batteries connected together as described),
and should you get to over 100 metres use 24 volts (two 12 volt batteries
together).

If you don't use the command wire approach you will need to have some
sort of timed switch system. You could buy an electric time switch,
but these are expensive. The alternative is to make you own. There
are two very simple systems.

A short time delay can be created by gluing a thick piece of copper
wire to the dial of a egg timer, or other mechanical kitchen timer,
and then gluing some solid metal contact to the body of the egg timer
(see diagram on next page). You then solder/connect two short lengths
of wire to these contacts. You should also check the circuit using
an unmodified bulb and a battery to ensure that when the two contacts
touch, that a good circuit is made. At the target, you connect one
wire from the timer to the fuse, and one wire from the fuse to the
battery. When you have set the timer and it is running, make the final
connection between the timer and the battery. Then retire.

Delay switches (figure 45)

The other simple option is to use a micro-switch and a polythene bag
full of water. You should use a 'single-pole double-throw' microswitch
with a lever arm - these  have three terminals. You should use a battery
and bulb circuit to check which two terminals conduct electricity when
the lever is released.

At the target, you fix the micro-switch by pinning it to a wooden post,
or superglue the body of the switch to a clean surface. The switch
should have the lever facing upwards. tie a string to the end of the
lever. Fill a polythene bag with water and tie off the top. You then
tie the other end of the string around the top of the bag, and suspend
the bag from the lever arm of the micro-switch. The practical limitation
on this is that the bag must not be so heavy as to bend the lever of
the micro-switch, and the empty bag and string must be light enough
so that the spring in the switch can push up the lever and activate
the fuse.

When the switch and bag are set, connect one wire from the switch to
the fuse, and one wire from the fuse to the battery. Then, poke a few
small holes in the bag so that the water drips out. Then connect the
last wire from the switch to the battery. Then retire.

If you use a heavy duty switch with a strong lever, you can connect
a fairly heavy bag of water - this may last a number of hours before
the switch activates.

The last thing to discuss is the use of powder for cutting and soldering.
The diagram on the following page shows two metal blocks - for example
sliding doors. First clean the metal surfaces using a wire brush. Next,
twist a number of strands of plumbers solder together to make a thick
bundle between half and one inch in diameter. Rub this with grease
and push it into the corner between the two blocks. Then, using clay
or Plasticine make a little wall in front of the solder strip to retain
it when it melts. Finally, pack a thick, 3-4 inch layer of powder over
the top of everything, an insert fuses at 6 inch intervals to set it
off. It may improve the performance of the whole set up is you insert
the fuses through short steel or card tubes, and then pack a few inches
of earth over the powder to keep the heat in.

Hole burning and strip soldering (figure 46)

When the powder burns, the heat generated will melt the solder, and
if the surfaces are clean, and the grease acts well as a flux, the
solder should run into the gap between the two blocks and solidify.
With things like sliding doors, even if the joint doesn't seal the
doors shut, there should be sufficient melting to serious impair their
use.

Finally, it is possible to burn through sheets of metal. You could
just pile lots of powder on the sheet, insert a fuse, and then cover
in earth. This may generate enough heat to burn through steel, and
should go through aluminium. To be certain, you need to initiate a
very hot reaction. A good things to use for this is a aluminium-magnesium
alloy car wheel (if you can't obtain an old one from a garage or scrap
yard, you could always remove one from an awful sports car). You can
tell these wheels because magnets won't stick to them. You should pack
polythene bags full of powder to one side of the wheel, and within
the 'U' shape of the rim - use wide strips of tape to fix the bags
in place. At four or six inch internals tape small bags of ground match
heads between the bags, insert fuses, and lead all the fuses (trying
to keep them the same length) to one point and tie them together. Take
the wheel to the target, place the wheel bags-side down on the steel
sheet surface.

When you light the fuses, and they initiate the match heads, the powder
in the bags begin to burn. If it gets hot enough the magnesium/aluminium
in the wheel will ignite and burn intensely. This should be enough
to burn through a quarter inch steel plate.

10.5 Delayed sabotage

Sometimes, overt sabotage is not always the best way to take on a target.
If you can delay the effects of the sabotage for some time you can
cover your tracks, or if you combine delayed with immediate sabotage,
you can stagger the effects of your work.

There are a number of options...
   You can add smaller quantities of sand or abrasive powder to the
sump of vehicles. This will not cause immediate action, but will damage
the engine over a longer period of operation. You can also put small
quantities of abrasive into the sumps of hydraulic systems.
   Diesel and petrol slowly dissolve plastic. Therefore if you put sugar
inside a thick plastic bag and roll the bag to make a sausage one to
two inches in diameter, and then tape along the end to keep the sausage
neatly together, the whole assembly can be inserted into the fuel tank
of a vehicle. Over a few days the fuel will dissolve the plastic, and
the sugar will begin to dissolve, carbonising up the engine. If you
want to take on larger storage tanks, you will need to use bigger bags,
and use three or four in order to contaminate the larger volume of
fuel.
   It is possible to buy fairly cheap mains timers. These can be connected
up (instead of plugging them in) so that at the appropriate time/date,
the switch operates and shorts out electrical cables (this should only
be done where you're fairly sure that the mains supply will have fuses
built in). If, for example, you are dealing with something like external
flood lighting, you could find the underground cable, and bury the
time programmed for a regular time, meaning that until they found the
timer and removed it it could fuse the lights at the same time every
day if the lights were turned on.
   If you can find ducts or concealed voids in concrete structures,
such as roads bridges on controversial completed road schemes, you
could fill these voids with large quantities of salt (you could probably
steal quite a few bags from the stocks at local roads depots). The
salt will then seep into the concrete and attack the steel reinforcement.
   For the more technically minded, if you can rig up a pulse counter
to something that regularly turns off and on, you can link this to
a relay which will short out the electrical systems.

The only drawback to delayed sabotage is reliability. The longer the
device is in place, the greater the chance that the device will be
discovered. There is also a safety issue. Delaying the effect may make
equipment unsafe, with the risk that operators or the public may be
harmed. You should therefore only undertake such actions if you are
certain about what the eventual effect will be.

11. HEALTH AND SAFETY

The health and safety section of Volume I concentrated mainly on tool
related safety. With this volume the risks are more complex, and the
variety of systems described makes it difficult to pinpoint particular
risks. In general...
   Beware of all electrical systems. Before cutting a wire be sure you
know what you are cutting. For safety's sake always wear plastic or
rubber gloves and use insulated cutters.
   Do not cut fuel pipes unless absolutely necessary.
   With pneumatic systems, beware incase there is still pressure in
the system. If in doubt use a bradawl or small drill to make a hole
and release any pressurise before cutting.
   Beware when cutting hydraulic systems that the pipe is not under
pressure - as noted above drill first if in doubt. Also, beware that
the cutting of a pipe does not release the pressure that is holding
the machine - the machine could move or jibs could drip on you.
   Do not wear baggy clothes or allow you hair to wave about - they
may get caught in machinery and cause you injury, or trap you.
   Do not cut any 'safety' systems such as brakes, fire alarms, etc.
   Never climb any structure or equipment where you may fall, or become
trapped.
   IF IN DOUBT ABOUT THE EFFECT OF ANY ACTION - DON'T DO IT!!

In relation to the previous section on combustion, there are very specific
safety rules...
   Do not initiate any fire where you cannot be sure of limiting the
effects to a small, specific area.
   Do not start a fire where large quantities of fuel or chemicals are
present.
   When cutting/grinding match heads, cut the coating from the wood
with a sharp knife. To grind use the back of a wooden spoon, on a wooden
surface, to press down. Move the spoon slowly - do not bang it down.
Always make sure that you never grind more than one or two heaped teaspoons
of heads at a time in case they catch fire. Never store more than a
cup full of ground heads in the same place. Always wear gloves.
   If you need to grind ammonium fertiliser, use the same precautions
as for match heads. Always wear gloves when handling the material.
   When mixing ammonium nitrate, charcoal and sugar, never mix more
than a kilo at a time. Carefully stir the contents together inside
a metal saucepan using a wooden spoon. When stirred, transfer directly
to a plastic bag and seal it. Never store the powder in close proximity
to match heads until you set up the device, and never put either match
heads or powder in a bag where they will clanks and bang together with
your tools. Preferably put them in a box which is impact resistant.
   Never keep petrol or solvents in a plastic bottle.
   Never connect the battery to an electrically fused system unless
you have first checked that the switches are not active.

The other main precaution must be to ensure that your activities do
not in themselves cause environmental pollution. Opening the pipes
on a large fuel storage tank could cause massive pollution. Likewise
setting fire to a farmer's barn full of pesticides could create a major
catastrophe.

As well as the common sense things like not releasing fuel, always
remember that you actions could cause problems later. If you cut power
cables, and short the wires because your cutters were not sharp, when
the systems is turned on you could cause a short that might start a
fire. For safety's sake, it is a good idea to develop some sort of
calling card to tell people you were there, or at least use a marker
pen to leave a warning to the owners/operators.

As noted previously, the most important thing to take with you
is your common sense

12. CONCLUSION

The more reactionary elements of the anti-environmental movement will,
I am sure, immediately seize on section 10.4 on 'combustion'. We believe
that the introduction to that section must be re-emphasised. Such extreme
measure are only for use when the seriousness of the environmental
destruction warrants the use of such practices, and all other options
have been considered.

The rest of the Volume is fairly straightforward. We hope that the
concept of analysing a target in terms of the energy flows within a
'system' will enable you to objectively study your target, and then
carry out the most appropriate sabotage to produce the desired result.

In comparison to Volume I, this volume has been a little more technical.
I must apologise in advance that Volume III (currently in preparation)
will be even more technical. But we hope that you will eventually be
able to progress to a point where all the Volumes in this series will
be of some assistance to you.

END

